Monday, 13 August 2018



Online Gaming Tweaks

For Enthusiasts & Competitive Gamers
(This article is being updated occasionally so it could be little different the next time you read it).
This is the first thing you should do to be able to revert the changes if you have to !

How to make a System Restore Point : 
do it every time you make changes to Windows
 Right click on "This PC" - "Properties", then "System Protection". Then press "Create..." If it's not ON just select your C: drive click on "Configure" and Turn on "System Protection". Then press "Create..." & make a Restore Point. If you want to go back to your old settings click on "System Restore ..." & choose "Undo System Restore" or "Choose a different System Restore Point".

You can use the .exe I made to make SystemRestorePoint. 
It's just convenient instead to go to Restore Point every time:

It runs in the background for a few seconds & will show you a message if it is successful or not. Run As Administrator. If it gives you error run it a couple of times & should work. Let me know if it doesn't work for you in the comments or e-mail.

The sections with "*are the core of this guide. Everything else is just a filler.

(You Can Skip It)

(If you want just to copy/paste step by step someone else's vague settings who can't even explain why you have to do the tweak he's telling you to do (because he just copy/pasted it himself on google) you got the wrong place. But If you actually want to learn something keep reading. The different coloring is to get your attention, not to look pretty, Im aware how it looks)

Disclaimer: This is not a step-by-step guide & its not only for gaming any more but there are general optimization tips as well. This is about improving & customizing Windows. You can make your own testings to see the difference but I'm telling you right now the majority of the tweaks mostly improve latency & input lag, not max FPS. You can have boost in Min. FPS & 1% & 0.1% loads, depending on your hardware but do not expect your computer suddenly starts hitting 600+fps on Ultra. This is not realistic. That's why it's called optimization, not a miracle (Watch your min. FPS, 1%, 0,1% & Frametimes, not max FPS. Sometimes you can have few FPS less but better latency). If you want a faster PC, buy a new one. If you want to improve your system, hit-reg & maybe fix some issues along the way please keep reading. Otherwise, fuck off. 

For reference this was my first computer in school:                                     My first personal computer was this:                                                                           Looked Like This (Pentium 3)                                        

I was a fucking casual back then but when I really started to get into computers & gaming was when Core 2 Duos came out. So please, before you girls start screaming consider that I might know something more than you casuals. This guide is aiming for the lowest overhead possible and best hit-registration in online FPS Shooters. 

Before you see something you read is a myth & decide the whole guide is shit, you should read what's my opinion & what I say about it. I try to cover as many angles as possible here. 

My guide is competitive oriented & while I have a ton of information how to get the best chance to your hardware (you're welcome) I dont share everything. There are a lot of BF players reading it & I play against some of them so I need to have something in my sleeve to equalize the playfield when play vs low ping players (distance & game compensation are a big factor, not just ping). I can handle average low pinger but a skilled low ping player is a totally different animal. Certain settings/tweaks give you a slight advantage but in a competitive environment that has a bigger impact than in a normal public match. This is the reason why I didnt write about certain things like Display Scaling & just mention the higher DPI is faster (its enough for ppl with a brain who read carefully, I like to leave clues). Of course, High-End GPUs use "hybrid" scaling and it's almost the same input lag but Display Scaling is still slightly better & people with older or lower-end cards can potentially have bigger improvements with it. The bigger advantage here is the sharper picture. Thats why, for now, I wont write about how I OC my monitor. Rich kids can afford 360hz ones, combine that with someone who lives in a Server Center area (most of West Europe in my case) which further gives him an enormous advantage. Higher Monitor Refresh Rate further lowers the System Latency which is similar to playing with lower ping, not directly but compensates the overall delay on the client side (even though OC some Monitors drops frames, its still more than native hz). But OC also stresses the monitor & could have real problems, especially if you cant afford new one. Well, like all overclocking. People who are persistent enough can learn how themselves. 

 That might anger some people who are used to get chewed info but I feel like I dont have anything to prove, just because I already did it.

Thats why I like so much what Battle (Non) Sense does. His videos confirm a lot of things I wrote about in my guide years ago, (that few people knew back then, even before some of his videos) and I update it ever since. I think this speaks enough for my guide & for people to see whos the real deal and whos just a poser & copy/paster. There are people who messaged me how they love my guide and that its the reason they got into tweaking but now talking shit & lies about me. How sad is that. Just because their "friends" online do the same. Sheep mentality. No individual thinking. Ctr+C from My Balls, Ctr+V on Their Eyes :D

Some "Gurus" on Twitter who sells you tweaks (many of them placebos or even hurt the performance) or make videos dont have basic knowledge or even a computer few years ago but now they're experts (some even with "10 years of experience") :D Laughable.

While on the topic.... I see people talk shit about my guide (even lie about things I've never said) because of my personality not because its bad. Sometimes even people who mean well quote me wrong for something i never said & others take it as true & it becomes like a broken telephone.

Some are "wannabe experts" who get frustrated ppl say good things about me, reference my suggestions, recommend my blog ect. They're just haters who want the same & this annoys them. This where some of the negativity towards me & my guide lies. Just haters & "wanna be experts" who hate me for it without realizing it (doesnt matter that they learned from my guide). Another is that Im just sick of ppl who talk on the topic without understanding it & spread misinformation & Im telling it to them. Its not personal but naturally I make them my enemies.

Today every halfwit have a guide cause its prestigious or whatever :D Dont try to be what you're not (someone else). Be yourself. Ups, more enemies... 

Intelligent people can separate the critiques from personal attacks & my guide from me but sadly many ppl are not intelligent enough. And some are just dumb as fuck :D

Although I dont agree with everything they say (because they optimize Windows for different things than competitive gaming), these are people who I respect their opinion & if they say something you disagree with, you should at least consider & think about it.

People like St1cky, Dreamjow, Timecard, Cancerogeno, Xander, Monad (Jana Dark), Bunny, Melody, Bored, KGCT, Manekk (also guys like Dato & Felipe have potential). Im sure Im forgetting someone.

I say this despite the fact that some of them give credit to copy/pasters & people who take info from my guide & scripts but Im not included & pretty sure some of them dislike me xD 


If You Learned Something & Want to Support My Work Please Consider Donating Or Becoming a Patreon. This Means You Appreciate My Content!

This Will Give Me The Incentive To Continue My Work & More Free Time Testing New Tweaks & Ways To Implement Them Or Allow Me To Test PC Parts & Features. Or Maybe Give A Sneak Peek Of What Im Currently Working To The Patreons & More Updates To My Upcoming Program. Im Still Figuring It Out. Suggestions Are Welcomed.

(Good Example Is The New Rocket Lake Where There Are Almost No Properly Made Reviews. Especially For Competitive Gaming or Testing A Fully Maxed Out Platform & Tell You What Are The Best Settings. Spoiler. They Should Not Be OC Like Older Generations. Thats Why Intel Introduces New OC Features)


Link to my BFV page: Tweaks & relevant stuff. 
I'm updating it when I have something new.

Get Admin Rights
You will need Full Admin Rights to be able to make the changes.

"*"means "important"
These tweaks are good for all games.
Most people will be fine with Hit-Reg Optimizations and the performance tweaks from the PERFORMANCE_BOOSTER. I use most of the tweaks on fresh Windows installation or after Win Update. They are for people who want the best possible performance.  Plus you need to know what you doing so when a problem appears you won't freak out and be able to fix it. Windows pre-installation is not The Fix for everything.

This won't be a short one. So I suggest you take your time and read it bit by bit. I decided to gather some of the tweaks from my blog in one post and expand from there. Its a lot to read & a ton of tweaks but you don't need to read all at once.  Some people get confused what's where and when to do it so I added some points for reference BUT thats not a Step-by-Step guide.

1. Uninstall or disable Windows Apps & Windows Store.
2. Disable Cortana-she's a telemetry bitch & causes privacy issues, also you can disable search indexing but this is just for general optimization, nothing to do with gaming these days. Disable also Defender, Maintenance, Security Center, maybe Task Scheduler. If you use Search get 3rd party StartMenu, they all have one and are miles better than Windows Start Menu.
3. Disable Telemetry, Privacy & Data Collection (including through HOSTS file).
4. Turn Off Windows Features & Disable Services you don't need.
5. Performance & Hit-Reg Tweaks-Registry, Commands ect.-This is HUGE topic by itself.
6. Unlock the CPU Power Settings in Power Options Menu & Unpark your CPU.
7. Use G-Booster every time when gaming + OC your system.
If you have a laptop use ThrottleStop & Extreme Tuning Utility. Undervolt.

If I leave an old tweak it's because eighter it worked recently or its for older Windows 7, 8 & 10 versions. We still gonna disable the Telemetry to reduce the background workload & processes but this time more than a few Telemetry & Privacy settings, not just what Microsoft allows and gives you as options.

There are articles telling you how certain tweak is bad or have no benefit and shows you some benchmark or other tests. The thing is there are tweaks that can't be measured with benchmarks or they just use the wrong one. That doesn't mean there is no benefit.

Everything internet related is for Cable Internet, not Wireless.
Don't use the internet tweaks if you have Wireless Connection.

When I talk I'm gonna assume you know certain things and have some level of knowledge on the topic. Please, share this tutorial only with people who actually need it and want to learn. I don't make this for views. You can skip ahead if you don't want to read my "rumblings" but there is a lot of useful information if you are interested.

Most of the time Security is made at the expense of the performance. So in order to increase the performance, we need to reduce the security-keep that in mind. The good thing is we don't need security when gaming. For the people who know how - use a separate Windows only for Gaming and a second Windows installation if you use credit cards or bank accounts online. For Gaming I can recommend RevisionOS-this is a custom Windows, stripped from bloatware and other unnecessary features. For more info check the link:


First of all, use offline account in Windows 8 & 10. Why? Because I said so :) Seriously it uses fewer services & its less restrictive. v.1709 is lighter and easy to tweak & is better for gaming than v1803, v1809 & v1903. v1803 was Updated for Spectre & Meltdown which slows the performance (although you can disable them in the registry), v.1809 have issues from the beginning but now is in a good state & you have to have it if you want to use RayTracing. v1903 is still not worthed, its "improved" v1809 but have kernel spikes. v.2004 is more promising with its Hardware-accelerated GPU scheduling & Dx12 Ultimate Update but still has some problems with the kernel. It seems that every new version Microsoft adds more & more bloatware, features & tasks that hurts the latency. Delete programs & drivers you don't use & disable Telemetry (this is a vast topic btw). Defragment your hard disk (trim if SSD) & your Registry at least once per week (it helps with old Hard Disks). For normal Hard Disks regular Registry, Page File & MFT Defragmenting gives you a noticeable boost when loading Windows or a program. Dont defrag SSDs. Windows defrag tool will detect SSD and will only trim it, you can do this from time to time. Always have enough free space on your Windows Drive (minimum 15-25%). SSDs need more free space to operate optimally & have a longer life. BTW larger capacity SSDs are faster, in general. And since we are on the topic here's how to improve your Hard Disk speed. It's called Short Stroking. No, not that kind of stroking you dirty little monkey :)

After that install Windows on it (or your games if you have already Windows on SSD) and use the slow partition as little as possible - only for storage for example. Reinstall Windows every few months (I would say 6-8, a year max) because Windows is not Linux and it degrades over time. Of course, that's a suggestion, not a rule, Win10 is more robust than older versions & we now use SSDs that mitigate the problem. That's why you need to clean Disk & Registry from time to time on mechanical drives. Usually Windows does these things automatically but tweakers disable these features.

Oh, and for those who delete everything in SystemApps folder except ShellExperienceHost and then ask why StartMenu and Taskbar don't work:

That's why I'm saying that just removing and disabling blindly everything you can without causing Windows to crash after boot is not the right way to go. You need to put some thought about it. Does it benefits me, is it improves something, what I will not be able to use after that ect. Anyway, this won't give you any performance benefits, just will free 100mb of disk space. You can delete it as well but leaving File Explorer will prevent some problems.

Do Not Use 12gb RAM On DDR4 Systems. It Cripples The Performance.

That forces Windows to use Flex Mode. This is even worse than using only 8Gb of RAM. On DDR3 it's fine, well maybe. Four sticks of the same RAM will act like dual ranked (not dual channel-special clarification for Cheff-Koch because he is kinda slow) and might give you a little bit of extra performance. That might depend on the motherboard, not 100% sure. Here is a link to Intel page explaining the different types of memory modes: 

Single-channel, Dual-channel, Tripple-channel, Quad-channel & Flex Mode.

About page file. I recommend most users to leave it by default since this tweak have a marginal performance impact. Still, If you want to tweak it & have 12-16gb of RAM or more you can disable Page File for older Windows versions or leave 300mb in Windows 10 & disable memory dump files if you don't use them (with this disabled you can even go with disabling page file completely but some programs don't work properly if there is no page file. This forces Windows to store the files in the RAM which is way faster than any SSD, that doesnt mean you will see better performance though. That's needed if you have slow Hard Disk & 16GB+ RAM. Some people say there is no difference with SSD, I say there is a minor difference. If nothing else you will increase your SSD lifespan. If you have 2 Hard Disks put the page file to the one without the installed Windows. For 1 SSD & 1 Hard Disk (or more) - page file on SSD. For security reasons you can delete the page file every time Windows shuts down but this will slow down the process.

Update your drivers when playing a new game. You need all the latest drivers (you could override this but you wouldn't have special optimizations for the game). If you have an old system I recommend updating only the critical drivers because in many cases drivers are not optimized for you and could have some sort of issue or worse performance. And know that sometimes you can have a bad driver update which could ruin your gaming experience causing delays, stuttering and other bad shit. I would stay away from Intel® Management Engine Driver. The best fix is to reinstall Windows if nothing helps. If you use cloud to synchronize your files reinstalling gets way faster & convenient.

*Turn off any software in the background while gaming, disable Maintenance. Disable all sound enhancements and lower the sample rate to CD Quality (or lower if you can - 32000hz is a good choice). Play on High Performance Power Plan or Ultimate Performance (don't listen to those who tell you Ultimate is the worse performance, they don't know what benchmark to use in the first place but apparently know better than Microsoft. It will use more power though & might need more voltage for your OC), Set the Game on High Priority or Realtime from Task Manager. Remove CPU cores from Set Affinity to background programs you can't stop or use. Unpark your CPU. On Windows 8.1 or lower its mandatory, laptops too. Also on Win7 & I think Win8 you can lower the color quality*. Windows 10 is using different approach & you don't really need to unpark. It's still useful for responsiveness but If there is a performance difference, it would be negligible. It's still a good thing to do & If you do it anyway use programs made for Win 10. ParkControl by Bitsum for example-it also unlocks hidden Power Plan settings for CPU in Power Options or Quick CPU. You can use Bitsum Process Lasso too. It's like Windows Task Manager on steroids. It also imports a custom Windows Power Plan called Bitsum Highest Performance. 

Bitsum Process Lasso
Real-Time PC Optimization Tool

You can use a free version but you lose some of the features. 


I extracted them from the program. They are locked in the free version but you can use them separately.

*Privacy & Optimization Apps

 These programs allow you to control critical system settings along with some Windows privacy and telemetry. Use 1 of them or 1 by 1 & restart PC after every time. I don't recommend to use all, 2, 3 at most but Restore Point before & after every program you use. Don't skip that. We do this because after Windows Update many options are being enabled again. That way some options will stay disabled. That means you have to be sure you disable only setting you won't use. You also can use my Telemetry Stop tool after you are done with the programs. It has more tweaks than some of these programs below. W10Privacy is a powerful but dangerous program so be careful. Use it only if you know what you're doing. WPD, Shutup10, AntiSpy are lighter and better for inexperienced people. There are more similar programs but these are enough.

O&O Shutup10


Ashampoo AntiSpy

Windows Privacy Tweaker

(use carefully. It can ruin your Windows. Make System Restore Point manually before using it. Only for advanced users)

Win10 Spy Disabler
*Telemetry Stop App:

Disclaimer: Your Anti-Virus most likely will show my apps as false-positive. The file will show as some kind of virus or trojan but that's because i don't have a license, it's not signed & submitted to Windows and Anti-virus database or doesnt have a window (yep, thats enough for Windows to flag something). That's common for many portable programs. So don't worry. There is no virus in the file, just useful commands. It won't harm your Windows. So to summer up - the people with faint hearts to stay away and don't use them if they worry for viruses. No viruses!
But if you use them they will free system resources, reduce used background bandwidth & help improve overall latency. I would use the programs first & after that use my apps to avoid incompatibility & assure the tweaks are not overwritten. Windows changes the service dependencies often lately. I'm giving you both ways- apps & batch files. They might share mostly similar options but the values are what makes an option good, better or bad for gaming.
*With that said these tweaks & files are working for me, they might not work properly on all systems & Windows versions or maybe they worked fine until certain Windows Update. Just know shit can happen any time. Keep that in mind and don't blame me if you fucked up something or have issues. If you do this by the book you have to be able to reverse every change you make to your Windows. If you experience problems please write a comment below. I need to know what to improve or fix.
Disable_Cortana_SearchUI_Telemetry & Voice Recognition:
Make System Restore Point before every tweak

Turn Off Search Indexing. Right click on your Windows drive in Explorer -Properties & uncheck "Allow files on this drive to have contents indexed ....",click to ignore errors

After that make these commands into a batch file and run it As Administrator. I'll leave a link to download. You can use some of the apps and disable Cortana from the there but in most of the cases, the commands I give are more effective & have more tweaks than the apps. If you want to disable something completely use mine after the apps (restart every time). Before running the batch file disable search box in Taskbar like on screenshot bellow & don't enable it after that because it could force Windows Explorer to refresh itself indefinitely & Desktop will be unusable. To fix it you have to run the batch file again (use TaskManager) or go back with System Restore Point. This also happens when run PERFORMANCE BOOSTERv3.5 script because this batch is included there.

Disclaimer: There are articles and people who will say disabling Index & Cortana is not working, myth/placebo and have no performance improvements. While its not a gaming tweak it uses not a small amount of system resources. Doesn't matter if idles or not if you dont use that feature and want to disable Telemetry. This causes additional overhead to your hard disk & CPU. This additionally slows down the system, especially old mechanic Hard Disks or 2/4 CPU core systems. If you don't use it disable it. Why something you don't use to be active.

Download the batch file:

sc stop "WSearch"
taskkill /F /IM SearchUI.exe
move "%windir%\SystemApps\Microsoft.Windows.Cortana_cw5n1h2txyewy" "%windir%\SystemApps\Microsoft.Windows.Cortana_cw5n1h2txyewy.bak"
Reg.exe add "HKCU\Software\Microsoft\Windows\CurrentVersion\Search" /v "AllowCortana" /t REG_DWORD /d "0" /f
Reg.exe add "HKCU\Software\Microsoft\Windows\CurrentVersion\Search" /v "BingSearchEnabled" /t REG_DWORD /d "0" /f
Reg.exe add "HKCU\Software\Microsoft\Windows\CurrentVersion\Search" /v "CortanaEnabled" /t REG_DWORD /d "0" /f
Reg.exe add "HKCU\Software\Microsoft\Windows\CurrentVersion\Search" /v "SearchboxTaskbarMode" /t REG_DWORD /d "0" /f
Reg.exe add "HKLM\SOFTWARE\Policies\Microsoft\Windows\Windows Search" /v "AllowCortana" /t REG_DWORD /d "0" /f
Reg.exe add "HKLM\SOFTWARE\Policies\Microsoft\Windows\Windows Search" /v "AllowCloudSearch" /t REG_DWORD /d "0" /f
Reg.exe add "HKLM\SOFTWARE\Policies\Microsoft\Windows\Windows Search" /v "ConnectedSearchUseWeb" /t REG_DWORD /d "0" /f
Reg.exe add "HKLM\Software\Policies\Microsoft\Windows\Windows Search" /v "ConnectedSearchUseWebOverMeteredConnections" /t REG_DWORD /d "0" /f
Reg.exe add "HKLM\SOFTWARE\Policies\Microsoft\Windows\Windows Search" /v "DisableWebSearch" /t REG_DWORD /d "1" /f
Reg.exe add "HKLM\SOFTWARE\Policies\Microsoft\Windows\Windows Search" /v "AllowSearchToUseLocation" /t REG_DWORD /d "0" /f
Reg.exe add "HKLM\SOFTWARE\Policies\Microsoft\Windows\Windows Search" /v "AllowCortanaAboveLock" /t REG_DWORD /d "0" /f
Reg.exe add "HKLM\SOFTWARE\Microsoft\Speech_OneCore\Preferences" /v "ModelDownloadAllowed" /t REG_DWORD /d "0" /f
Reg.exe add "HKCU\Software\Microsoft\InputPersonalization\TrainedDataStore" /v "HarvestContacts" /t REG_DWORD /d "0" /f
Reg.exe add "HKCU\Software\Microsoft\InputPersonalization" /v "RestrictImplicitTextCollection" /t REG_DWORD /d "1" /f
Reg.exe add "HKCU\Software\Microsoft\InputPersonalization" /v "RestrictImplicitInkCollection" /t REG_DWORD /d "1" /f
Reg.exe add "HKCU\Software\Microsoft\Personalization\Settings" /v "AcceptedPrivacyPolicy" /t REG_DWORD /d "0" /f
Reg.exe add "HKCU\SOFTWARE\Classes\Local Settings\Software\Microsoft\Windows\CurrentVersion\AppContainer\Storage\microsoft.microsoftedge_8wekyb3d8bbwe\MicrosoftEdge\ServiceUI" /v "EnableCortana" /t REG_DWORD /d "0" /f >nul
netsh advfirewall firewall add rule name="SearchUI.exe Telemetry" dir=out action=block program="%SystemRoot%\SystemApps\Microsoft.Windows.Cortana_cw5n1h2txyewy\SearchUI.exe"
 Retstart PC after that !

Group Policy Editor for Windows 10 Home:

You can disable various Windows features including Defender & Cortana with Group Policy Editor. Type gpedit.msc in RUN or Search.

In Group Policy Editor - Computer Configuration Administrative Templates > Windows Components - there are the whole bunch of options you should disable along with Windows Defender ones. You also can disable Cortana from Group Policy Editor. Windows Home users don't have a Group Policy Editor but I got you covered ;) They can install it. Enjoy :)
*Disable Windows Services

You can do it manually or use the batch files in the link. Also disable Windows Defender when gaming, especially if you have other Antivirus Software (which you should disable temporarily as well).  

Disable Windows Store Apps:
(except Calculator & Windows Photos)

Disable_Defender (Permanently) 
If you use this tool the G-Booster stopping Defender temporarily (pause it) most likely won't work.

Windows 10 Game Mode

In v1709 & v1803 you can use Gaming Mode by pressing Windows key & G and check "use Game Mode on this game".  Don't use it in previous Windows versions because its buggy & can cause stuttering & other problems. Windows Game Mode prioritizes all system resources to the game you play to lowers the latency and get the best possible performance + small FPS boost for slow PCs. 
*My GamingMode 
The latest improved version is integrated in "GPU BOOSTER"

It temporarily frees system resources by disabling many of the services you dont need for gaming, raising priority, optimizes the memory, switch to High Performance. Disabled Services will start as normal after PC restart. So the app will reduce CPU, internet & RAM usageThere is no window, it runs in the background for about 20 sec (it's much faster in G-Booster, 2-3 sec). Run it as Administrator, you can check Services in Task Manager to see which services are being disabled. Few new services are not included in this version but you can disable them manually from Task Manager after running my GameMode. 100% safe & working. I make these tools for me & try to include useful tweaks & what I want from such a program. Otherwise, there is no point in creating them, I'll just download something from the internet.

Some people think if they have enough RAM its ok to leave services enabled. That's not true. They can slow down the system, especially on 4 core CPUs when you use 85-100%. Even if you have 16 threads this can slow down the responsiveness. Windows Defender is a good example for slowing your PC in games or benchmarks. For casual gamers that's not a big problem but if you want better performance that's a must.

If you disable manually, start with UPnP Service. It causes trouble to DICE devs since BFBC2. Don't disable a service you actually use. This is different for every user. If you use bluetooth for ex. don't disable Bluetooth Support Service. The trick is not to blindly disable everything you can but to know what causes a problem & fix it and leave those which doesn't have performance hit or might use someday.

When im gaming & use my GameMode I reduce all services to around 25-32 after that I disable few more manually if there are such.  This lowers the general latency.


So let me clear some up. When i say "it should work", that means it's not tested & I just assume that.  

This is different than my PERFORMANCE_BOOSTER (which will reduce the services down to around 25, depending on Windows version. They can become as low as 19 if using my Game Mode). You can check it out if you are interested.

I use these commands just as an example.
Keep in mind these are not optimal and my settings are slightly aggressive and you might have issues if you use something I don't. It leaves only the most necessary services. I don't disable Windows Firewall but disable Defender, Windows Store & Cortana because I dont use them and there is no need to use system resources. Cortana is also related to telemetry and data collecting & raise Privacy concerns.

Reg.exe add "HKLM\SOFTWARE\Microsoft\Windows\CurrentVersion\Explorer" /v "SmartScreenEnabled" /t REG_SZ /d "Off" /f
Reg.exe add "HKCU\Software\Classes\Local Settings\Software\Microsoft\Windows\CurrentVersion\AppContainer\Storage\microsoft.microsoftedge_8wekyb3d8bbwe\MicrosoftEdge\PhishingFilter" /v "EnabledV9" /t REG_DWORD /d "0" /f
Reg.exe add "HKCU\Software\Microsoft\Windows\CurrentVersion\AppHost" /v "EnableWebContentEvaluation" /t REG_DWORD /d "0" /f
Reg.exe add "HKCU\Software\Policies\Microsoft\Windows\Explorer" /v "DisableNotificationCenter" /t REG_DWORD /d "1" /f
Reg.exe add "HKLM\SYSTEM\ControlSet001\Services\AxInstSV" /v "Start" /t REG_DWORD /d "3" /f
Reg.exe add "HKLM\SYSTEM\ControlSet001\Services\WinRM" /v "Start" /t REG_DWORD /d "4" /f
Reg.exe add "HKLM\SYSTEM\ControlSet001\Services\WinHttpAutoProxySvc" /v "Start" /t REG_DWORD /d "4" /f
Reg.exe add "HKLM\SYSTEM\ControlSet001\Services\TrkWks" /v "Start" /t REG_DWORD /d "3" /f
Reg.exe add "HKLM\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\services\rdbss" /v "Start" /t REG_DWORD /d "3" /f
Reg.exe add "HKLM\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\services\pcmcia" /v "Start" /t REG_DWORD /d "3" /f
Reg.exe add "HKLM\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\services\luafv" /v "Start" /t REG_DWORD /d "4" /f
Reg.exe add "HKLM\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\services\lltdio" /v "Start" /t REG_DWORD /d "3" /f
Reg.exe add "HKLM\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\services\hwpolicy" /v "Start" /t REG_DWORD /d "3" /f
Reg.exe add "HKLM\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\services\vdrvroot" /v "Start" /t REG_DWORD /d "3" /f
Reg.exe add "HKLM\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\Services\tcpipreg" /v "Start" /t REG_DWORD /d "3" /f
Reg.exe add "HKLM\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\services\TrustedInstaller" /v "Start" /t REG_DWORD /d "3" /f
Reg.exe add "HKLM\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\services\srvnet" /v "Start" /t REG_DWORD /d "3" /f
Reg.exe add "HKLM\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\services\rspndr" /v "Start" /t REG_DWORD /d "3" /f
Reg.exe add "HKLM\System\CurrentControlSet\Services\WerSvc" /v "Start" /t REG_DWORD /d "3" /f
Reg.exe add "HKLM\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\Services\wscsvc" /v "Start" /t REG_DWORD /d "4" /f
Reg.exe add "HKLM\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\Services\Schedule" /v "Start" /t REG_DWORD /d "2" /f
Reg.exe add "HKLM\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\Services\DEFRAGSVC" /v "Start" /t REG_DWORD /d "3" /f
Reg.exe add "HKLM\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\Services\upnphost" /v "Start" /t REG_DWORD /d "4" /f
Reg.exe add "HKLM\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\Services\SSDPSRV" /v "Start" /t REG_DWORD /d "3" /f
Reg.exe add "HKLM\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\Services\MessagingService_1c6e8" /v "Start" /t REG_DWORD /d "4" /f
Reg.exe add "HKLM\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\Services\MessagingService" /v "Start" /t REG_DWORD /d "4" /f
Reg.exe add "HKLM\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\Services\stisvc" /v "Start" /t REG_DWORD /d "2" /f
REG ADD "HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\services\MapsBroker" /v Start /t REG_DWORD /d 00000004 /f
REG ADD "HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\services\iphlpsvc" /v Start /t REG_DWORD /d 00000004 /f
REG ADD "HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\services\ALG" /v Start /t REG_DWORD /d 00000004 /f
REG ADD "HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\services\AppMgmt" /v Start /t REG_DWORD /d 00000004 /f
REG ADD "HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\services\PeerDistSvc" /v Start /t REG_DWORD /d 00000004 /f
REG ADD "HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\services\CertPropSvc" /v Start /t REG_DWORD /d 00000004 /f
REG ADD "HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\services\irmon" /v Start /t REG_DWORD /d 00000004 /f
REG ADD "HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\services\MSiSCSI" /v Start /t REG_DWORD /d 00000004 /f
REG ADD "HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\services\NaturalAuthentication" /v Start /t REG_DWORD /d 00000004 /f
REG ADD "HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\services\Netlogon" /v Start /t REG_DWORD /d 00000004 /f
REG ADD "HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\services\RpcLocator" /v Start /t REG_DWORD /d 00000004 /f
REG ADD "HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\services\RetailDemo" /v Start /t REG_DWORD /d 00000004 /f
REG ADD "HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\services\SCPolicySvc" /v Start /t REG_DWORD /d 00000004 /f
REG ADD "HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\services\SNMPTRAP" /v Start /t REG_DWORD /d 00000004 /f
REG ADD "HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\services\wcncsvc" /v Start /t REG_DWORD /d 00000004 /f
REG ADD "HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\services\wisvc" /v Start /t REG_DWORD /d 00000004 /f
REG ADD "HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\services\WinRM" /v Start /t REG_DWORD /d 00000004 /f
REG ADD "HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\services\WwanSvc" /v Start /t REG_DWORD /d 00000004 /f
REG ADD "HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\services\xbgm" /v Start /t REG_DWORD /d 00000004 /f
REG ADD "HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\services\XblAuthManager" /v Start /t REG_DWORD /d 00000004 /f
REG ADD "HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\services\XboxNetApiSvc" /v Start /t REG_DWORD /d 00000004 /f
REG ADD "HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\services\XblGameSave" /v Start /t REG_DWORD /d 00000004 /f
REG ADD "HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\services\SessionEnv" /v Start /t REG_DWORD /d 00000004 /f
REG ADD "HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\services\TermService" /v Start /t REG_DWORD /d 00000004 /f
REG ADD "HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\services\UmRdpService" /v Start /t REG_DWORD /d 00000004 /f
REG ADD "HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\services\AJRouter" /v Start /t REG_DWORD /d 00000004 /f
REG ADD "HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\services\BthHFSrv" /v Start /t REG_DWORD /d 00000004 /f
REG ADD "HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\services\bthserv" /v Start /t REG_DWORD /d 00000004 /f
REG ADD "HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\services\dmwappushsvc" /v Start /t REG_DWORD /d 00000004 /f
REG ADD "HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\services\HvHost" /v Start /t REG_DWORD /d 00000004 /f
REG ADD "HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\services\vmickvpexchange" /v Start /t REG_DWORD /d 00000004 /f
REG ADD "HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\services\vmicguestinterface" /v Start /t REG_DWORD /d 00000004 /f
REG ADD "HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\services\vmicshutdown" /v Start /t REG_DWORD /d 00000004 /f
REG ADD "HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\services\vmicheartbeat" /v Start /t REG_DWORD /d 00000004 /f
REG ADD "HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\services\vmicvmsession" /v Start /t REG_DWORD /d 00000004 /f
REG ADD "HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\services\vmicrdv" /v Start /t REG_DWORD /d 00000004 /f
REG ADD "HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\services\SharedAccess" /v Start /t REG_DWORD /d 00000004 /f
REG ADD "HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\services\IpxlatCfgSvc" /v Start /t REG_DWORD /d 00000004 /f
REG ADD "HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\services\SmsRouter" /v Start /t REG_DWORD /d 00000004 /f
REG ADD "HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\services\CscService" /v Start /t REG_DWORD /d 00000004 /f
REG ADD "HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\services\SEMgrSvc" /v Start /t REG_DWORD /d 00000004 /f
REG ADD "HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\services\PhoneSvc" /v Start /t REG_DWORD /d 00000004 /f
REG ADD "HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\services\SensorDataService" /v Start /t REG_DWORD /d 00000004 /f
REG ADD "HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\services\SensrSvc" /v Start /t REG_DWORD /d 00000004 /f
REG ADD "HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\services\SensorService" /v Start /t REG_DWORD /d 00000004 /f
REG ADD "HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\services\ScDeviceEnum" /v Start /t REG_DWORD /d 00000004 /f
REG ADD "HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\services\TabletInputService" /v Start /t REG_DWORD /d 00000004 /f
REG ADD "HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\services\WebClient" /v Start /t REG_DWORD /d 00000004 /f
REG ADD "HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\services\WFDSConSvc" /v Start /t REG_DWORD /d 00000004 /f
REG ADD "HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\services\FrameServer" /v Start /t REG_DWORD /d 00000004 /f
REG ADD "HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\services\icssvc" /v Start /t REG_DWORD /d 00000004 /f
REG ADD "HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\services\lfsvc" /v Start /t REG_DWORD /d 00000004 /f
REG ADD "HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\services\NcdAutoSetup" /v Start /t REG_DWORD /d 00000004 /f
REG ADD "HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\services\NfsClnt" /v Start /t REG_DWORD /d 00000004 /f
REG ADD "HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\services\WMPNetworkSvc" /v Start /t REG_DWORD /d 00000004 /f
REG ADD "HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\services\WlanSvc" /v Start /t REG_DWORD /d 00000004 /f
REG ADD "HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\services\lmhosts" /v Start /t REG_DWORD /d 00000004 /f
REG ADD "HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\services\CscService" /v Start /t REG_DWORD /d 00000004 /f
REG ADD "HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\services\CertPropSvc" /v Start /t REG_DWORD /d 00000004 /f
REG ADD "HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\services\msahci" /v Start /t REG_DWORD /d 00000004 /f
REG ADD "HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\services\p2pimsvc" /v Start /t REG_DWORD /d 00000004 /f
REG ADD "HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\services\PcaSvc" /v Start /t REG_DWORD /d 00000004 /f
REG ADD "HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\services\PNRPsvc" /v Start /t REG_DWORD /d 00000004 /f
REG ADD "HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\services\RemoteRegistry" /v Start /t REG_DWORD /d 00000004 /f
REG ADD "HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\services\HomeGroupListener" /v Start /t REG_DWORD /d 00000004 /f
REG ADD "HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\services\HomeGroupProvider" /v Start /t REG_DWORD /d 00000004 /f
REG ADD "HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\services\SENS" /v Start /t REG_DWORD /d 00000004 /f
REG ADD "HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\services\SysMain" /v Start /t REG_DWORD /d 00000004 /f
REG ADD "HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\Services\TimeBrokerSvc" /v Start /t REG_DWORD /d 00000003 /f
REG ADD "HKLM\SOFTWARE\Policies\Microsoft\WindowsStore" /v "RemoveWindowsStore" /t REG_DWORD /d "1" /f

Retstart PC after that !


*Hit-Reg Optimizations:
The biggest impact on hit-reg is your internet connection & distance to the server.
"Let’s start with the main cause of lag. When you are put on a server far away, you will experience more lag. It’s just like real life – the further you have to travel the longer it takes. Games are no different. What’s worse, other players in the game who are located nearer the server will have an advantage over you as their experience will be much more responsive."

Another explanation by a Hunt: Showdown developers. Its a must-read if you want to understand whats going on when you play online games. Dedicated servers are the fastest & most reliable way for online FPS Shooters.

"Though the internet is fast, it isn't instant, so when your client sends the server a message telling it that you've just pulled the trigger on your Caldwell, that message isn't instant either. This delay is typically called network latency, and it is measured in milliseconds (1 second=1000milliseconds=1000ms).

Your ping, which you can measure via your game performance stats, is the amount of time a message takes to go from your client to the server, and then back to your client.

This latency—which is caused by ISP infrastructure, distance, hardware connection quality, and other factors—is not a problem that any one game can solve. It's something that all game development teams have to account for, and we all have strategies for minimizing its impact. Hunt is no different.

When it comes to the issue of correctly registering gunshots and hits (player vs player), latency affects your game as follows:

1. Because of network latency on your local machine, you never see the current state of the world. If a message from the server takes 40 milliseconds to arrive, you are seeing what the game world looked like 40 milliseconds ago.
2. When you move or press the trigger of your gun, a message from your client has to be sent to the server, then the server has to process your input, apply it to your character, and send it back to you before you can see the result of that shot. Factoring in the delay on both sides, this could result in an up to 80 millisecond delay.

If we didn't do anything to mitigate this, the game would feel like it had input lag: the bigger the ping, the bigger the lag.

To keep the game responsive in spite of this, we use a client-side prediction system. This system allows you to take action in your local game client and see the results immediately by making a prediction about what happened. When the server response arrives, the system checks whether what you did locally matches what happened on the server. If it doesn't match, the system reconciles your local client to the server's version of events.

This system creates an interesting problem: You are being allowed to move and act instantly, while seeing a “past" representation of the game world. Yet, it is as if your character is acting in the “future", since the server has not yet received and integrated your response into the big picture.

Well, the problem is that when you are aiming your gun at a Hunter, they are, technically, not actually there. You are seeing where that Hunter was 40 milliseconds ago, in relation to the server. For the person playing that other Hunter—since his client is allowing him to predicatively move ahead of the server too—the Hunter might be farther away from the spot where you are aiming."

This shows some of the variables the game has to calculate in Realtime. Thats why some players shoot slightly ahead of the running enemy - to compensate for it. They might dont know how it works but they feel it & subconsciously try to compensate the difference b/w the Server-side & the Client-side.

This is something i try to explain to many players who live in West Europe, where the Data Centers are located and they live few 100 km away from the Servers (or less). Some think they have Hit-Reg issues but with their 1-20 ping connection they don't know what is a real Hit-Registration problem, many think it's enough just to be a good player with good aim but that's because they don't know better & don't have enough experience and knowledge how networking works.
They don't believe the distance affects the connection performance (and that's only one of the problems along with the connection routes and the quality of the physical wires, 
signal conversion & performance of the switches & routers along the way, the location and number of the HOPs, as well as whether the route itself is optimal or not). The internet signal is not traveling in straight line guys. Fiber is best but it doesn't mean that you have optic cables all the way to the server. Maybe for players in Germany & neighboring countries (Most/best EU servers are located there) but not for players who live on the other side of the continent.

Sometimes High-ping players can also have extremely good hit-reg as well but its rarer and depends on multiple factors. For ex. if the route cables are underwater means they are mostly straight line - shorter cable length & faster connection despite the distance. Network Cable Route 
underwater can be much shorter compared to that on the ground because it has less obstacles like the ones I mention above. The game engine also has lag compensation as you will see in the CS:GO video below. There are other reasons like using VPN (u can have lower or higher ping but good hit-reg) or DDOSing the server. They confuse the game lag Compensation & that gives them an advantage- they are harder to hit (sponge) if they move constantly.

Hit-Reg depends on the Ping, Your (Client) Distance to the server, the route, the number & performance of the switches & servers, your Router, the System Latency (that includes the mouse, monitor & your PC components). Even the speed & the direction at which the enemy player runs - Yeah :)

This is probably the #1 reason why people say the hit-reg sucks. Especially when play vs low ping players (provided both players are good).

They say: "Well, I played in US servers and I still dominate" - Several factors here: The thing is they still have the benefit of a network that is entirely consisting of Fiber and they play vs noobs. US has inconsistent connection depending on the region but in East US (where EU players play) thats not an issue. The moment when they meet a good US player they think he's cheating because they havent experienced it & dont know what a real lag looks like.

Lag Compensation: The online gaming consists of gaming server and client. The client is your PC system. With this technique, the game is trying to compensate the player movement delay. The Hunt devs call that client-side prediction system. So what happens is the gaming server (your real location is on the server) is trying to synchronize with the client. The enemy you see is his client, not his real location, which is on the server. This is happening in all online games. Watch the video below.

Overclock your CPU and GPU. The things that benefit the hit-reg the most are CPU & RAM speed + timings, CPU cache (uncore), vRAM. That lowers the System Latency. Also if you dont use wi-fi & your ISP technology allows it - skip the router and put the cable directly to the PC. Trust me, if you dont have a router its better hit-reg & its the ONLY way to reduce ping from your PC (although not guarantee its, 1-3ms less). With no router, your ping is more stable and not spiking up & down as much. Every router adds a delay on top of your ping, good ones just add a smaller delay but it's still there. Also if you have poor connection using certain VPN (not just anyone) can lower your ping in some circumstances & improve your internet connection. But that's a custom case & it's highly dependable on your location, your ISP, VPN & the game you play. System Latency and your reactions can compensate when playing vs similar to your skill player who has slightly lower ping. There is also game lag compensation but thats unpredictable. Then some higher ping player can have an advantage over you.

Gaming Tweak For Winows 7 & 8-8.1 (AFD_Parameters & CTCP Tweak):

Intel Recommendations:
Cat5 vs Cat6 Cables
You don't need more than Cat5 if you have 100mbps.

update: (For people who think that Cat6 is better for gaming- Its NOT)
Here's a quick Google. I get why ppl think its faster-because they say that its faster :D
but here faster means that Cat6 can handle higher speeds if your ISP provides you with higher speeds. (That's why you need to listen to actual experts on the topic, not just people who only know how to Google, sell tweaks on Twitter or make Youtube videos with copy/patsed tweaks). So if you paid for 10gb connection you need Cat6 for sure. If you have 100Mbps LAN connection you don't need more than Cat5E (up to 1gbps). I hope that clears things up. 

*TCP Optimizer:

Remark: I have questions from time to time if it necessary to use TCP Optimizer if you use commands. No, you do not. It can still help with multimedia, internet browsing, fixing network issues so I wont remove it from the guide for that reason, in case someone wants to use it. For v1709 and above use TCP Optimizer v4.7 & above. Microsoft revisited the networking in this version & its using different commands now for some settings. You can use v4.6 on earlier Windows versions. 

On the slider above (Connection Speed) choose your theoretical internet connection speed not what the speed test shows-for ex. 5/10/25/50/75/100/1000 mbps. If you dont know what it is-Basically round the numbers of your speed test. If You have 1Gbps+ set it to max 100Mbps.

If you have a poor internet connection you can disable TCP Windows Auto-Tuning. You can leave it enabled if you have a good connection. If you have lower download speeds set it back to normal. Heuristics can cause issues with auto-tuning & can improve Internet speeds when disabled. It's disabled by default in Windows 8.1 Copy the screenshots settings. The MTU is different for different connections so test it first.

Disabling Nagles Algorithm- there is no point of doing this tweak in Win10/11. Maybe if you play older games or one which uses TCP protocol instead of UDP, the majority of modern FPS games use UDP for time-critical tasks because it's faster. I dont think it hurts if you disable it though. Leatrix latency fix does the same - disables the Nagles Algorithm. No need to use it if you have TCP Optimizer. 
I will leave the commands TCP Optimizer is using along with few others. This is one of the few good tools which are updated adequately but i think it needs a revisit for the latest Win.versions. Cheers to Philip from :) He's from Bulgaria too. His site has an explanation of all of the options & features used in the program and more. Worth checking for beginners.

If you use older Windows 7 you probably should Enable DCA. It shows on Win 7 version.

After that restart your PC, go back in Windows and do the next steps.

*Right click on Network Internet Access & Open Network and Sharing Center

Go on Properties then Advanced

The idea is to disable everything you don't need & use to free processing power and reduce the workload so the packets to travel as efficient and fast as possible. 

  Uncheck File and Printer Sharing for Microsoft Networks
  & if no one else but you is using your internet connection - Disable QoS Packet Scheduler too (QoS depends whether you have other devices & programs in the back when gaming). But if someone else is using the connection or use other programs that use internet when gaming, then leave it Checked. In that case, you can consider using cfosspeed or similar program to give priority to the game or set it in your router.

  Uncheck Internet Protocol Version 6 (TCP/IPv6). If you are a Home user you don't need IPv6 except if your connection uses IPv6-but that's rare on Home users, you can check it on Ethernet Status window after you go on Ethernet. After that hit OK. Then go back here and click CONFIGURE.

Go on Advanced
Your driver may look different but the settings are the same with small exceptions

*The ones with red * are mandatory
If You are a real Competitive or a Pro player (custom matches), dont listen to anyone else, the rest depends on your hardware & setup.

*Disable Adaptive Inter-Frame Spacing
*Disable Flow Control
*Disable Interrupt Moderation
(If u decide to use it, at least use Minimal or Adaptive)
*Set Interrupt Moderation Rate to OFF :
(no need if you disable Interrupt Moderation but I still do it)
*Large Send Offload 
Set Enable PME to Disabled
Disable Packet Priority & VLAN
*Disable Jumbo Packet
*Recieve & Transmit Buffers to MAX
 *Set Receive Side Scaling (RSS) - ENABLED
RSS Balancing Mode-NUMAScaling Or ConservativeScaling
*Disable all Power-Saving Settings
(There are other relevant options but I wont mention them because turns out Cheff-Coch is copy/pasting my guide after he said that its bad. Fuckin Hypocrite)

For Fast OC CPUs - Disable all “Offload” features.
You can leave 
TCP & UDP Checksum Offload Options enabled- most players can leave them enabled but You should test for yourself

If you use multiple devices on the same connection & programs in the background, QoS will help, Packet Priority & VLAN also have to be enabled as well & I recommend in this case to set NetworkThrottlingIndex to 10 as well. Disabling Offloadings will increase your CPU usage so be careful & check whether you are not CPU bottlenecked. Remember, this is Online Gaming, You should not care if you have 2 or 20us higher DPC latency. Because disabling Offloading will increase that micro latency but that doesn't matter in online gaming as long as your DPS & ISRs are within normal range & dont spike. LatencyMon is the reason for so many placebo tweaks that can be good for general use but does nothing or hurt gaming & the opposite-ppl think that since its higher latency in LatencyMon & other similar tools, its bad for gaming. The same goes for any troubleshooting tool that measures driver latency. More performance will cause more interrupts, thats normal, it's how the CPU & the drivers communicate.
In gaming what matters is System Latency & Internet Connection, not DPCs & ISRs. Using less CPU is not good for gaming as long as you are not CPU bottlenecked. 
There is a difference b/w Performance & Efficiency. Fast cars burn more fuel. A higher polling rate mouse (lets say 8000hz) will use more CPU % & cause more interrupts but it lowers the input lag. People test how many interrupts the CPU receives but dont translate this with the in-game performance (not talking about FPS) so claiming that less interrupts is better for gaming performance is just not true.
There are many kinds of "Good Settings" depending on your workload & what you do with your computer. So if someone says these are the Best settings, you should ask yourself & check for what workload. I know several people who say their tweaks are "for gaming" & "hit-reg" because they are popular words but in reality they are not optimized for gaming (but Server work or normal Desktop use or just placebo), you just can game on them - there is a big difference. Im interested in Online Gaming Optimization more than 10 years at this point. When you test my tweaks you should use a game with Server Browser where you can choose the same server every time. (t
hats how I test my tweaks). Not using Matchmaking where the game puts you in different server every time. Even if you have the same ping with Matchmaking its still a different server & will perform differently. So if someone tested my tweaks with Matchmaking and say they are shit, you should know that they are full of shit.

There was an old Microsoft page saying that you have to enable Receive Side Scaling and Checksum Offload if you want to use the RSS Queues (although for Checksum, I haven't seen this in Intel documents (or any other document), it's possible that be the case for old Windows versions/Internet Adapters or only if you want to use the NIC and CPU can calculate this on its own, but not sure*. What I know is that with Checksum Disabled & RSS Enabled Latency Monitor shows the driver is working on the assigned/pinned CPU Cores which shows RSS is working without it)The number of the allocated RSS Queues is related to the CPU core count. Keep that in mind. Enable only Checksum Offload if you want to use RSS or disable RSS completely. Don't enable all Checksum settings if you have a fast CPU & RAM. Increasing the queues improves the throughput for different kinds of workload environments. Since v1803 Microsoft introduced RSSv2 which is faster & more responsive (technically in v1709 but its preview only). 

You also can use Interrupt Affinity Policy Configuration Tool & MSI Tool to improve latency (just know that some drivers can override them).

For Overclocking, you can check which are the best CPU Core by starting CPU-Z, Tools>Clocks and the best cores will be in Red color. This could be a motherboard feature or the chip itself. Im not sure. Check the screenshot below.

 If you have old or slow CPU you can consider disabling RSS & use lower Rx & Tx. Otherwise set the number of RSS Queues to 2 or higher value. There is a way for Intel NICs to increase the number of Queues from the registry.

Two options here: Set Receive & Transmit buffers to the lowest you can set OR the highest - Test it. I find 64-96 is good for me but you can have packet loss if it's too low. Intel recommends these 2 options to be increased to max. Enable DCA for Windows 7.
Disable all power-saving settings (Green, Eco, Power Saving etc)

Leave Gigabit Master Slave Mode as it is - Auto Detect
 Don't touch Speed & Duplex, leave it on Auto Negotiation 
They can disable your internet on Intel NICs.

 To fix it you'll have to go back in System Restore Point or reinstall your internet drivers.
*Here are commands for Windows 7, 8 & 10. The commands for Win 7 & 8 (or the ones your system dont use) won't harm Win10, they just show error & won't work. Most Home connections don't use it but you make sure your connection doesn't use IPv6. If you do - don't use the first two commands. I recommend running the commands after you make the tweaks in TCP Optimizer & Network Card. They complement each other. Make System Restore Point before and after every change you make.

I noticed that 
Cheff-Koch, the person who said that my guide is bad copy/pasted these exact commands to his github page from my blog along with the values & some of the information. The guy is pretending to be a critic. He is Hypocritic, not Critic.

netsh interface teredo set state disabled
netsh interface 6to4 set state disabled
netsh winsock reset
netsh int isatap set state disable
netsh int ip set global taskoffload=enabled
netsh int ip set global neighborcachelimit=4096
netsh int tcp set global timestamps=enabled
netsh int tcp set heuristics disabled
netsh int tcp set global autotuninglevel=normal
netsh int tcp set global congestionprovider=ctcp
netsh int tcp set supplemental Internet congestionprovider=CTCP
netsh int tcp set global chimney=disabled
netsh int tcp set global ecncapability=disabled
netsh int tcp set global rss=enabled
netsh int tcp set global rsc=disabled
netsh int tcp set global dca=enabled
netsh int tcp set global netdma=enabled
netsh int tcp set global nonsackrttresiliency=disabled
netsh int tcp set security mpp=disabled
netsh int tcp set security profiles=disabled
PowerShell Disable-NetAdapterChecksumOffload -Name "*"
PowerShell Disable-NetAdapterLso -Name "*"
PowerShell Disable-NetAdapterRsc -Name "*"
PowerShell Disable-NetAdapterIPsecOffload -Name "*"
PowerShell Disable-NetAdapterPowerManagement -Name "*"
PowerShell Disable-NetAdapterQos -Name "*"

Reg.exe add "HKLM\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\Services\Tcpip\Parameters" /v "EnableICMPRedirect" /t REG_DWORD /d "1" /f
Reg.exe add "HKLM\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\Services\Tcpip\Parameters" /v "EnablePMTUDiscovery" /t REG_DWORD /d "1" /f
Reg.exe add "HKLM\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\Services\Tcpip\Parameters" /v "Tcp1323Opts" /t REG_DWORD /d "0" /f
Reg.exe add "HKLM\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\Services\Tcpip\Parameters" /v "TcpMaxDupAcks" /t REG_DWORD /d "2" /f
Reg.exe add "HKLM\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\Services\Tcpip\Parameters" /v "TcpTimedWaitDelay" /t REG_DWORD /d "32" /f
Reg.exe add "HKLM\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\Services\Tcpip\Parameters" /v "GlobalMaxTcpWindowSize" /t REG_DWORD /d "8760" /f
Reg.exe add "HKLM\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\Services\Tcpip\Parameters" /v "TcpWindowSize" /t REG_DWORD /d "8760" /f
Reg.exe add "HKLM\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\Services\Tcpip\Parameters" /v "MaxConnectionsPerServer" /t REG_DWORD /d "0" /f
Reg.exe add "HKLM\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\Services\Tcpip\Parameters" /v "MaxUserPort" /t REG_DWORD /d "65534" /f
Reg.exe add "HKLM\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\Services\Tcpip\Parameters" /v "SackOpts" /t REG_DWORD /d "0" /f
Reg.exe add "HKLM\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\Services\Tcpip\Parameters" /v "DefaultTTL" /t REG_DWORD /d "64" /f

Works on Win7 & Win8 too. That's why I left some unused by Win10 commands
Restart PC


If you want to use RSS this is the way to go. I will be setting this correctly in my new program as well, for people who dont know how and what exactly to do or not sure. So in order for this to work you have to enable RSS & set how many queues you want to use. For 4 core CPUs you cannot use more than 2 queues. I will focus on these since I also have 4 core CPU. After you enable and set RSS 2 queues you have to decide which cores you want to allocate these queues. Usually the last cores are used less often but in games all cores will be used anyway so that step is more beneficial for 6+ core CPUs. If you have HT set the queues only to real cores. 

You can increase/decrease the RSS queues with this command. The values of 4 here is how many queues the CPU will use. If 4 is working on you I'd say use it but you have to have more cores because the way it works is that's the cores that receive, you also need cores that send. That's why Im assuming that doesn't work for 4 core CPU. You need to have at least 1 or 2 cores that sends packets. You can't only receive and if you use the same cores for both receive & send it will hurt the performance.

Set-NetAdapterRss -Name "Ethernet" -NumberOfReceiveQueues 4

You probably can use it on Higher Core Count CPUs but I dont have one to test, I confirmed it once with my neighbor's 8700k but that was 1 year ago and Microsoft constantly makes changes that even get on previous Windows versions as well. So you have to test if it still working or not for more than 4 cores. Comment below or contact me in my discord.

You can set which cores to use RSS with this command. Value of 2 means you set the queues to the last 2 cores. By default the max number of Cores is 4 so the queues could be distributed between the 4 cores:

Set-NetAdapterRSS -Name "Ethernet" -BaseProcessorNumber 2 

By limiting that to 2 you can improve the latency because the packets are not going through all the cores. The CPU will do less work. You probably can see this in some form - less interrupts, less cycles or lower ISR and/or DPC latency. Anyway. If you have worse hit-reg than before then dont limit the Base RSS Cores (Set-NetAdapterRSS -Name "Ethernet" -BaseProcessorNumber 2 ). If the game uses most of the CPU than could happen.

You can check what you've changed with this command:


Now the important part. No matter which cores u chose to use, they have to match. Lets say you use Cores 2 & 3 (last 2 cores). Then you have to set the Interrupt Affinity to these cores. You can use the program or set them straight into the Registry. That way you can dramatically improve the latency & performance in general, depending on what you are doing. So to summarize: First enable RSS, then limit the max CPU Cores to the ones you want to use RSS, then set the Interrupt Affinity to the cores you set to use the RSS queues.

If you want to limit the queues to the first 2 cores use this command:

Set-NetAdapterRss -Name "Ethernet" -MaxProcessorNumber 1

You should know by now that my guide is not a step-by-step one and it's focused on information not telling you what to do.

Btw for all commands-if Ethernet is not working for you, use * instead which means it will set it to all network adapters. Most people have only one working Ethernet adapter so its ok to use. Does not affect Wi-Fi.


The way Windows is getting is not good at all, Microsoft locks everything they can to prevent us from changing their OS and forcing us to use Windows how they want us to use. For now you can see leftover codes from Windows 96 - thats why we are stilll able to make tweaks but mark my words. These days are numbered. Just look at the Xbox OS-thats what Microsoft are trying to do with Windows. They will eventually get rid of Win32 API platform and will force the new Modern shit that started with Win8 and that will be the whole OS. Win32 apps will be pushed aside more and moreover the years and eventually they will probably get emulated and all these tweaks that we know will stop working. So enjoy while it lasts. Microsoft will become the new Apple.


 Alright, one more bombshell from me. First i wanna say that i havent seen the commands im gonna show you anywhere on Internet the way i will show them. I've seen 1 or 2 somehwere mentioned or the formulla how it works but nowhere in that state and format or quantities :D When I made that list years ago I just read some documents and figured it out on my own how to work for my NIC, from there its easy for other NICs. You can control the whole driver like that. This is how Intel controls their drivers. I just watched a video how Fr33thy said that he dont recomend to touch anything in the driver except the power saving options. I laughed. Sry mate, its just not true. Maybe for casual players.

Do not apply them all, choose what you want. The command values are not necessarily my recomendations. Im just giveing you the commands.

Set-NetAdapterAdvancedProperty -Name "*" -DisplayName "Flow Control" -DisplayValue "disabled"
Set-NetAdapterAdvancedProperty -Name "*" -DisplayName "Interrupt Moderation" -DisplayValue "disabled"
Set-NetAdapterAdvancedProperty -Name "*" -DisplayName "Interrupt Moderation Rate" -DisplayValue "Off"
Set-NetAdapterAdvancedProperty -Name "*" -DisplayName "Enable PME" -DisplayValue "disabled"
Set-NetAdapterAdvancedProperty -Name "*" -DisplayName "Maximum Number of RSS Queues" -DisplayValue "4 Queues"
Set-NetAdapterAdvancedProperty -Name "*" -DisplayName "Transmit Buffers" -DisplayValue "2048"
Set-NetAdapterAdvancedProperty -Name "*" -DisplayName "Receive Buffers" -DisplayValue "2048"
Set-NetAdapterAdvancedProperty -Name "*" -DisplayName "Large Send Offload V2 (IPv4)" -DisplayValue "Disabled"
Set-NetAdapterAdvancedProperty -Name "*" -DisplayName "Large Send Offload V2 (IPv6)" -DisplayValue "Disabled"
Set-NetAdapterAdvancedProperty -Name "*" -DisplayName "TCP Checksum Offload (IPv4)" -DisplayValue "Disabled"
Set-NetAdapterAdvancedProperty -Name "*" -DisplayName "TCP Checksum Offload (IPv6)" -DisplayValue "Disabled"
Set-NetAdapterAdvancedProperty -Name "*" -DisplayName "UDP Checksum Offload (IPv4)" -DisplayValue "Disabled"
Set-NetAdapterAdvancedProperty -Name "*" -DisplayName "UDP Checksum Offload (IPv6)" -DisplayValue "Disabled"
Set-NetAdapterAdvancedProperty -Name "*" -DisplayName "IPv4 Checksum Offload" -DisplayValue "Disabled"
Set-NetAdapterAdvancedProperty -Name "*" -DisplayName "IPv4 Checksum Offload" -DisplayValue "Rx & Tx Enabled"
Set-NetAdapterAdvancedProperty -Name "*" -DisplayName "Speed & Duplex" -DisplayValue "Auto Negotiation"
Set-NetAdapterAdvancedProperty -Name "*" -DisplayName "Speed & Duplex" -DisplayValue "100 mbps Full Duplex"
Set-NetAdapterAdvancedProperty -Name "*" -DisplayName "Speed & Duplex" -DisplayValue "10 mbps Full Duplex"
Set-NetAdapterAdvancedProperty -Name "*" -DisplayName "Speed & Duplex" -DisplayValue "1.0 Gbps Full Duplex"
Set-NetAdapterAdvancedProperty -Name "*" -DisplayName "Speed & Duplex" -DisplayValue "100 mbps Half Duplex"
Set-NetAdapterAdvancedProperty -Name "*" -DisplayName "Speed & Duplex" -DisplayValue "10 mbps Half Duplex"
Set-NetAdapterAdvancedProperty -Name "*" -DisplayName "Gigabit Master Slave Mode" -DisplayValue "Auto Detect"
Set-NetAdapterAdvancedProperty -Name "*" -DisplayName "Gigabit Master Slave Mode" -DisplayValue "Force Master Mode"
Set-NetAdapterAdvancedProperty -Name "*" -DisplayName "Gigabit Master Slave Mode" -DisplayValue "Force Slave Mode" For two NICs
Set-NetAdapterAdvancedProperty -Name "*" -DisplayName "Maximum Number of RSS Processors" -DisplayValue "4 Processors"
Set-NetAdapterAdvancedProperty -Name "*" -DisplayName "RSS load balancing profile" -DisplayValue "NUMAScaling"
Set-NetAdapterAdvancedProperty -Name "*" -DisplayName "Protocol ARP Offload" -DisplayValue "Disabled"
Set-NetAdapterAdvancedProperty -Name "*" -DisplayName "Protocol NS Offload" -DisplayValue "Disabled"
Set-NetAdapterAdvancedProperty -Name "*" -DisplayName "Ultra Low Power Mode" -DisplayValue "Disabled"
Set-NetAdapterAdvancedProperty -Name "*" -DisplayName "Jumbo Packet" -DisplayValue "Disabled"
Set-NetAdapterAdvancedProperty -Name "*" -DisplayName "Wake on Magic Packet" -DisplayValue "Disabled"
Set-NetAdapterAdvancedProperty -Name "*" -DisplayName "Wake on Link Settings" -DisplayValue "Disabled"
Set-NetAdapterAdvancedProperty -Name "*" -DisplayName "Wait for Link" -DisplayValue "off"
Set-NetAdapterAdvancedProperty -Name "*" -DisplayName "Energy Efficient Ethernet" -DisplayValue "Off"
Set-NetAdapterAdvancedProperty -Name "*" -DisplayName "Reduce Speed On Power Down" -DisplayValue "Disabled"
Set-NetAdapterAdvancedProperty -Name "*" -DisplayName "System Idle Power Saver" -DisplayValue "Disabled"
Set-NetAdapterAdvancedProperty -Name "*" -DisplayName "Log Link State Event" -DisplayValue "Disabled"

Set-NetAdapterAdvancedProperty -Name "*" -DisplayName "Packet Priority & VLAN" -DisplayValue "Packet Priority & VLAN Disabled"

"*" means that will apply to all NIC drivers in the system. If you want to apply only to a specific NIC set it to the name of the NIC, for example "Ethernet" or "Adapter" or "Adapter 1" .

There are more and which is, more importantly, im giving you the knowledge how to figure it out for a specific option. If you have questions im always answering. Im not Cheff-Koch who block people that want help :D

If your driver doesnt have RSS Balancing you can apply this but know that this is an example here, its different for every system, so keep that in mind. After that just apply the command or change it from the Advanced Settings.

Reg.exe add "HKLM\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\Control\Class\{4d36e972-e325-11ce-bfc1-08002be10318}\0001" /v "*RSSProfile" /t REG_SZ /d "3" /f
Reg.exe add "HKLM\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\Control\Class\{4d36e972-e325-11ce-bfc1-08002be10318}\0001\Ndi\Params\*RSSProfile" /v "ParamDesc" /t REG_SZ /d "RSS load balancing profile" /f
Reg.exe add "HKLM\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\Control\Class\{4d36e972-e325-11ce-bfc1-08002be10318}\0001\Ndi\Params\*RSSProfile" /v "default" /t REG_SZ /d "1" /f
Reg.exe add "HKLM\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\Control\Class\{4d36e972-e325-11ce-bfc1-08002be10318}\0001\Ndi\Params\*RSSProfile" /v "type" /t REG_SZ /d "enum" /f
Reg.exe add "HKLM\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\Control\Class\{4d36e972-e325-11ce-bfc1-08002be10318}\0001\Ndi\Params\*RSSProfile\Enum" /v "1" /t REG_SZ /d "ClosestProcessor" /f
Reg.exe add "HKLM\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\Control\Class\{4d36e972-e325-11ce-bfc1-08002be10318}\0001\Ndi\Params\*RSSProfile\Enum" /v "2" /t REG_SZ /d "ClosestProcessorStatic" /f
Reg.exe add "HKLM\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\Control\Class\{4d36e972-e325-11ce-bfc1-08002be10318}\0001\Ndi\Params\*RSSProfile\Enum" /v "3" /t REG_SZ /d "NUMAScaling" /f
Reg.exe add "HKLM\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\Control\Class\{4d36e972-e325-11ce-bfc1-08002be10318}\0001\Ndi\Params\*RSSProfile\Enum" /v "4" /t REG_SZ /d "NUMAScalingStatic" /f

Reg.exe add "HKLM\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\Control\Class\{4d36e972-e325-11ce-bfc1-08002be10318}\0001\Ndi\Params\*RSSProfile\Enum" /v "5" /t REG_SZ /d "ConservativeScaling" /f

Everyone is an expert these days & has his own opinion how to tweak for "The Best "....insert something here...""" but i think i have the advantage of the experience and know what really helps for Hit-Reg in FPS Shooters, I maybe give more tweaks than its necessary but among that is the real tweaks that actually help. I like to disable everthing i dont use or need and ocasionally some security tweak among others. Anyway. Happy Tweaking ! Now the vultures can copy/paste at will :D just give me the credit.

*RSS Queues + Transmit & Receive Buffers
(This tweak is mine. I found it. If you see it anywhere else they took it from my blog. This is the only way that works on Windows 10. I think it's only fair to give me credit when you post it somewhere.)

At the time I'm writing that this is the only way to increase the RSS Queues (also have unpublished methods to expand the NIC capabilities) to more than the allowed number in Windows 10 & you can find the following tweaks only in my blog. You can even tweak the whole driver from there, although just registry changes is not the only requirement. There are articles for older Windows versions about RSS and Tx/Rx which don't work on Windows 10. Maybe I should mention that I found these tweaks on my own. So if you if you read it somewhere else, it came from here.

The Intel Ethernet 82579, I217, I218 & I219 Adapters support RSS for up to 2 queues. If you have higher than 4 cores you can add more queues with my method. Its even better if you have the latest Ethernet Adapters & high core count CPU. You can add more queues as long as they are 2 less than the number of the CPU cores. RSS allows incoming internet traffic to be processed in multiple queues, that way you can improve efficiency. There is a limitation with the mentioned Ethernet Adapters -they are old & do not support Msi-X (Message Signaled Interrupts). This means they cannot use separate queues to be processed by different CPU cores. So all queues are processed by one CPU core. I believe this is the reason why they are limited to only 2 queues. Its still faster but not as fast as Msi-X supported adapters.

For this to be working you need RSS to be enabled to use the Queues although there are other requirements & you need more than 4 core CPU. Your driver settings may look a bit different but most of the options are the same.

The registry path for this (Advanced tab Settings):

Is this:

and this:

Here mine is on 0001 but yours can be on 0002 or 0000. I can confirm this works for Intel NIC's (depending on your CPU & drivers, so its not working all the time, keep that in mind). But you can find your Class Guid for your Network Adapter from Driver Key in the drivers, since is different for every system. You can use Find... in the  Registry Editor menu.

You can change all network settings from here along with RSS Queues. The following steps should work on every Windows 10 version and Network Driver:

This is the default Intel settings:

We just need to add 2 more queues. Right click on the empty background and choose String Value, name it "3" and on Value Data type "3 Queues". Repeat the process for the 4th queue but name it "4" and type "4 Queues". You can even add more if you have 6 or 8 core CPU. I encourage you to test it.

3 Queues

4 Queues

Now here's one more tweak affecting Hit-Registration & Responsiveness in Games. This improves the performance of server installations and any kind of workload environment as well. Also great for 1GB, 2.5GB and 10GB internet connections.
You also can set the minimum and maximum values for Transmit & Receive Buffers (Tx) & (Rx) respectively.

This is the registry path:



For good connections, I recommend high values and for slower connections low values but you will have to test which is the best value for you. 
I was going to show my NIC settings but I assume they will work only for Intel NICs.

Increasing the RSS Queues works if you have at least 2 additional cores - so 4 queues on 6 Core CPU, 6 queues on 8 Cores ect. 


*Nvidia Control Pannel Game Settings - Performance

For those with the "secret" Nvidia & other registries that are dumped from the driver & put them in Windows Registry: Some might work (if done correctly) but only if the device has hardware registers mapped into memory or I/O address to access them. Without that there is no connection between the Driver & the Registry. So for those who ask me if these work or not - for the majority of you they wont work & if some work it will be just a few of them. If was that easy NvidiaProfileInspector wouldnt exist & even with that program the majority of the options are locked for GeForce by Nvidia (GeForce are the gaming cards) & work only on Server-grade cards like Tesla & Quadro (maybe Titan too). Nvidia is not AMD. They gradually keep restricting the Gaming cards, in both registry & drivers over the years. If AMD didnt released Anti-Lag, Low Latency Mode & Nvidia Reflex would not exist.


On Manage 3D settings go on Program Settings and choose every game separately because on Global Settings some program can "misbehave" & you could have issues with Internet Browser for example as it affects all programs. Also on PhysX choose GPU. Shader Cache ON - it's better and faster even with slower HD but sometimes you can have issues with "ON". Turn Off - Only if you have a very slow hard drive or stutters. Keep in mind "Off" causes CPU to work more, "ON" uses the hard drive. Max Pre-rendered frames on 1 or Use 3D Application Settings


If you use G-Sync set it to Fast in Vertical Sync Option. Fast Sync have an additional buffer which reduces the Input Lag but you have to cap the FPS by 2-3 below the refresh rate of your monitor in order G-Sync to work, otherwise, you will have way higher input lag. Of course when not using any sync is faster than G-sync (or FastSync). 

Watch these videos showing how FPS influences the gameplay and how V & G-Sync technologies work along with some testing results. It's very educational. 

The Telemetry, Maintenance, Defender, Update and other Windows background services and processes can increase the frame times and hurt the performance in general, even lower the FPS, depending on your system. On 60fps the frame times are 16.7ms, on 144fps-6.95ms, 240fps-4.17ms, on 500fps -2ms. Thats why you need your FPS as high as possible even on 60hz monitor. The game is more responsive and registers your mouse click & movements faster (lower input lag). This complements perfectly with a good connection & high refresh rate monitor and makes what we call a good Hit-Reg. Sometimes if you have a very good connection you don't need high FPS but that's the case in general & this player will have even better Hit-Reg with higher FPS. 
The higher the refresh rate the better, you need to reach at least the same FPS but the higher the lower frame times & better input lag.
With higher refresh monitor you see the enemy as soon as the GPU renders it. Someone with the same system as you but lower hz monitor will see you few ms later than you see him. Same connection too. If he has lower ping he will have the advantage or that will compensate your higher hz. Depends how much faster is than your connection.
System latency and your reactions can compensate when playing vs player with slightly lower ping. There is also game compensation but thats unpredictable. Then higher ping player can have an advantage over you.

Digital Foundry


  Hardware Unboxed

If you use programs when gaming you can use Display GPU Activity Icon in Notification Area to see which programs use the GPU & potentially disable them. Enable it from Nvidia Control Panel >Desktop. If the game uses 100% of the CPU (more than 95-96%) set Low Latency Mode on Ultra & if its less than 90% use On.

Same principle for AMD cards.
Last time I used AMD they were faster than the competition so Im not on 100% about these settings. I just use common sense. That's why I don't mention AMD often here. My experience is more with Intel & Nvidia.
Anti-Aliasing - Use Application Settings, Anisotropic Settings -  TurnOff, Texture Filtering Quality - Performance, Vertical Refresh is ALWAYS OFF, Tessalation - Override Application Settings & then choose OFF when the new option appears. For Scaling Mode - use No Scaling if you play on s native resolution for your monitor. If you play on lower resolution & No Scaling doesnt work on your monitor, then use Aspect Ratio.
Use .cfg file because in Battlefield for ex. there are commands which complement & improve the AMD Radeon & Nvidia Control Panel settings but they are not included as options.



GPU overclock is a childs play these days plus you have Nvida's GPU Boost 3.0 & 4.0. 

Run some benchmark in the background and adjust the settings on the fly. First Increase the Power Limit to the MAX & if you want the highest OC the voltage should be on MAX as well. 

After every change hit Apply. Then start increasing the memory clock with 50 - 100mhz at a time. Try first with +300. You can have more improvement from vRAM than Core speed.

 Each time you raise the clock watch for artifacts, screen flickering & other anomalies. Back down 10-15mhz if you see something unusual on the screen (decrease until you have a good picture). 

When you reached the highest stable memory speed make the same with the Core Clock. When you set your final OC, benchmark for a longer period to be sure it's stable. 

Always set custom Fan Curves- on Pascal cards the core speeds depends heavily on temps so you need your card as cool as possible to get the highest core speed. 

Use 2 separate cables to power the 6-pin &/or 8-pin connectors of the Video card (if it has 2 connectors). You also can cool your video card with a fan on top of the card. Place it on top of the GPU or the RAM modules or both. Of course on backplates with no vent wholes won't work. It gives me around 10C cooler GPU temps. Both methods can stabilize your overclock or give you a few more mhz. The fan(s) needs to be elevated so put rubber feet on 4 corners to minimize the noise or use zip ties.

Good demonstrative video about the airflow & PC cooling

And if you can put fan on the side panel place it to draw the hot air out of the case. It helps a lot on hotter cards in negative pressure cases. You can try the fan to blow in too. What fan orientation to be, depends on what fan configuration your case have (positive or negative). Watch the youtube video above. Thank me later :)

                                                           Ghetto Cool Tech: 


K-Boost removes the GPU Boost and your card will work at the highest Core Speed without lowering the clock. That's better performance. It forces your card to work on 100%. That's one of the few ways to max out your video card without a bios flash. Set your usual OC and enable it. If your core clock is dipping down that means your GPU can't sustain that speed on this load. When you find your card "sweetspot" it will be the same speed all the time and it will be higher than normal (without K-Boost). In any case you will have the best GPU response time. Don't forget to OC the vRAM & tweak the Power Management Mode in Nvidia Control Panel to Prefer Maximum Performance. Especially if you have flashed bios (for stability).

 It will increase your low FPS, maybe average too. Increases the performance in-game & can reduce the frame drops if you have ones. Some people think they have frame drops when playing on LOW Settings. It's normal to have big FPS fluctuations on LOW, that's not frame drop guys.

Use K-Boost only when gaming or other heavy tasks. After you stop the game, disable K-Boost otherwise your Video Card will work at highest voltage all the time and could overheat if not supervised. 

If you leave it enabled that might degrade your Video Card's life. If you don't disable K-Boost it will be still enabled after PC restart. Keep that in mind & dont forget it enabled more than a day. Of course if you know what you are doing and have good cooling + don't mind the card is using maximum power & stays on 100% all the time you can leave it on. Just know GPU temps can be 50-60C but vram & vrm can go above 115C. Especially if you have water cooled card but no fan over the other components or laptop like DELL Inspiron for ex. They were notorious with their high temps.

K-Boost is EVGA feature in PrecisionX OC software. But you can enable it with MSI Afterburner as well. It works only on Nvidia cards and it's locked only for EVGA ones after PrecisionX 16 v5.

There is a hidden shortcut that can bypass the K-Boost limitations & can be used on all Nvidia cards so no real need to enable it in Afterburner. Shift + Ctrl + Middle mouse button brings up the Advanced Settings menu & from there you can disable K-Boost limitations but you might have blue screens because of that.

Honestly, I prefer to use G-Booster because it's much simpler & easier way than all 3 variants (there is one more way btw) & have Game Mode + other gaming focused tweaks. 

(I've started an article about this long time ago but when i saw people ask 40eu for optimization & using my tweaks, i just stopped writing it. If someone shows you how to use K-Boost manually that works for all Nvidia cards (600s+), without restarting just know that this is my method (you can recognize it by the GUID im using) - when i figured it out & developed the automated method no one on the whole internet had it documented, just some snippets, Ive searched for months. So Im not just copy/pasting Google, like 99% of the "experts" these days, but actually creating something, anyway. Now, only one person have it posted on the internet and he used exactly G-Booster to see how it works. Cheers to Felipe, big potential. I'll appreciate the credit when mentioning this.)

The other, safer & easier way to enable K-Boost with no limitations or blue screens is G-Booster. Works for All Nvidia cards 600 series & above. Along with it there are several other powerful gaming features along with Windows Optimizations tweaks which actually works & will improve your Performance & Hit-Reg in game. They are optimized for Windows 10 but are adapted for Windows 7 & 8 as well. Doesn't use system resources at all. Here's a link to the page for more info: 


I just show you the tools & how to use them. You decide which one you like more.


offical link:

K-Boost in Afterburner:
official link for Afterburner:

You just have to change the skins:

1. Place defaultX.uxf in C:\Program Files (x86)\MSI Afterburner\Skins
2. Open Msi Afterburner and change skin to "Default EVGA Precision X 16 skin"
3. Enable K-Boost

 Nvidia Inspector: 

There are pre-defined optimized settings for basically every popular modern game from the last years. Its like Nvidia Control Panel on steroids (with more options). And you can overclock your card with it.

For people who still use SLI - to fix issues install latest drivers, run Nvidia Inspector, Click on "Create New Profile", click on "add an application to current profile" and choose the game you play. Go on compatibility in Nvidia Inspector settings and try the SLI compatibility bits options & other compatibility options. For BF4 the SLI compatibility bits (dx10-dx11) is: 0x080116F5 (Act of Aggression, Battlefield 3, Battlefield 1, etc.). Click on Apply changes and restart the PC. Typically you need to use cards with the same base & boost clocks, ideally with same BIOSes to avoid stuttering. You can try to mitigate stutters in MSI Afterburner by applying identical settings to both cards.

Another thing you can do to improve performance is to set the Texture Filtering LOD bias to (+) positive value. (-) Negative value sharpens the picture but might looks weird when moving. It should be also on Allow.
Always restart PC before using another program and make System Restore Point.

RadeonMod v1.0.14:

Old name was "AMD Registry Editor". You can edit the registry for AMD GPU's. Make a backup of your registry first and/or make a System Restore Point.
For Radeon R9 Fury, R9 300, and R7 300 Series, Radeon R9 200, R7 200, HD 7000, HD 6000, and HD 5000 Series, AMD Mobility Radeon Notebooks, Radeon HD 4000, HD 3000, and HD 2000 Series, AMD Radeon Dual Graphics.

(Bios Editor for Radeon 400 & 500 series AMD GPUs):


highest safe 24/7 CPU voltage is around 1.390-1.425
(For all Intel chips. Doesn't matter if it's SandyBridge or CoffeLake)

Most people just change the multiplayer & the voltage and call that OC. Some even leave voltage on Auto and can't understand why they have so high temps. I've had higher scores vs CPUs with 100mhz higher OC than mine. (Thats because Youtube is full with "OC guides" which changes only these two settings. Not to mention "60fps is good enough" crap.

Explaination of 1% & 0.1% Low FPS

People pay extra for something they don't use & waste money on higher-end CPUs & GPUs while they would be fine with less expensive ones since they dont OC. Same thing with power supplies-buy 600-1200w and don't even go in the bios. 500w is more than adequate if you don't OC guys. A reason for higher wat PSU is efficiency-use less power.

Be careful, even with low temps the higher voltage can damage your CPU.
With that said don't be a pussy & use the performance you overpaid for :)

Highest CPU temp Im comfortable with is around 75C-85C but you can run at 95C and still be fine as long as it's not happening very long time. Same thing with voltage. Of course the lower the better. Intel CPU can operate without throttling up to 105C & 115C+ for the 9000+ series. It doesn't matter if you have Ivy Bridge or CoffeeLake- if you don't go over 1,35-1,4v you are safe. 

You Need a Good Cooler & Good Thermal Paste If You Plan To Keep The Voltage High. 9000& 10000s are Different Than Older Intel Chips. Be Extra Careful With Their Voltage.

I use AsRock motherboards so I will use their terminology. The settings exist in other Motherboard brands but some of them have different names so keep that in mind.

First OC the CPU, then RAM because RAM OC can decrease the CPU OC. If you think you are experienced enough and know your PC you can OC them both simultaneously but thats for more advanced users.

 Before you set the multiplayer and find your best voltage for certain CPU speed you have to disable all power-saving features like C-states, CPU Enhanced Halt, Thermal Throttling, Intel Virtualization Technolgy as well. Set BCLK on 100 manually after setting XMP profile, to avoid possible changes, for simplicity. On high core count CPUs you can even disable the Hyperthreading in some games & benchmarks. Ryzen CPUs perform better without SMT in many games for example (SMT is AMD's Hyperthreading). The latest Ryzen versions are getting better performance with SMT but if you have high thread count CPU you can disable it in some games for higher OC or disable other chiplets to improve latency.
CPU cache (uncore or ring) uses more voltage above a certain threshold but it's good for the hit-reg so after you find the best CPU multiplayer set it the highest you can, just increase the CPU voltage to balance it if you have (temp) room for that. It also makes CPUs hotter. Don't bother to change the minimum CPU cache ratio, just maximum.
Voltage depends on the LLC (Load Line Calibration-check the link below to know more). The highest LLC more stable the OC but your motherboard will have higher temps. "z" & "x" motherboards (z170, z370, x99, x299 ect) are designed for overclocking. There are 2 LLC setting approaches depending on motherboard vendors. For ex. in ASUS bios the highest LLC is the highest number, in AsRock the highest is the lowest number. Leave PLL to default or lowest value. Higher values help for stability but that is in extreme cooling like ln2.

Set Long Duration Power Limit and Short Duration Power Limit + CPU Core Current Limit on the highest you can set it (just type 999999 and hit enter it will set it automatically to the highest value, works on most motherboards). For some BIOSes if it's in % you can set it to max.

Long Duration Maintained set to around 40 for above 5ghz and below 40 for slower OC. 1 or 2 is a good option too. Or Auto if you are not sure. The CPU voltage should be set to offset or adaptive not manual or Auto. You can use Manual If you prefer but the voltage will be at max all the time. It's also the laziest OC, u need some tweaking to make it right with Offset/Adaptive (although the boards on Intel 9-10 gen are getting quite accurate on Auto). So after you find your best CPU OC change CPU voltage from manual to offset, manual stay at high voltages all the time-its good for testing (to find your best OC) or very high/extreme OC for stability. 

After you find the best OC and want to squeeze a little more of your system you can try to increase the BCLK. This will change your RAM speeds (along with other settings) so watch them and adjust to make it back to normal speeds (2933mhz;3200mhz;3366mhz for ex.). BCLK overclocking needs slightly less voltage than multiplayer OC. For ex. I cant sustain 5.3ghz OC with multiplayer only. But with BCLK OC I can hit 5.3ghz stable.

The FCLK helps with data transfer between CPU and GPU. Im pretty sure it affects the memory controller because RAM is the medium between CPU & GPU, and sometimes you have to increase the RAM voltage to post. Set it on the highest (1000mhz).  If you still have issues with your RAM OC & can't post - increase RAM voltage. Set on 800mhz as a last resort. You have to check FCLK option frequently when changing the RAM settings because it goes to default when tweak RAM timings on some boards. I set FCLK last, after i find my stable RAM OC. It has a small increase in Benchmarks but it helps for the responsiveness & hit-reg.

Set the Fan speed to Highest Auto you have in Bios or make a custom curve. Better louder & cooler than hot & slow or crash. People who want quiet fans will set it differently anyway.

Fun Fact: IDK who started naming the CPU Logical Cores Threads but thats not actually correct. Its a jargon/slang. With more Logical Cores you are able to run more process threads in Windows. So strictly speaking threads are on the software side, part of the different processes, not in the CPU.


When you set CPU voltage for 24/7 go for adaptive or offset and set it to +N (for ex.+50 or 100 more or less depending on your Frequency) above your Default CPU voltage to adjust it (some boards have very accurate VIDs but in general its just a rough guideline how much voltage the CPU needs). For example, If your Default CPU voltage is 1,150v, + 100 offset means the CPU voltage will be around 1,250v in Windows. +150 means around 1,300v. If your lowest manual stable voltage is 1,275v for 5Ghz just set offset to +125 to make it 1,275v. These are just examples. My offset on my 7600k 5ghz is +160 offset with 1,125mv Default CPU voltage. You can check your Default CPU voltage with CPU-Z or HWINFO when CPU is under load. Usually Offset is taking slightly more voltage to compensate for the fluctuations. Also, take into consideration LLC. On 9,10 & 11 Gen the CPUs use more power & the Default CPU voltage is higher than 7, 8 & previous gens so your Offset voltage will be lower than these numbers if you have 9th+ Gen CPU. For ex. my 7600k is +300 for 5.3Ghz but my 10700k is +105 offset voltage (with cache OC included).

This explanation is based on normal BIOS settings. It will behave differently depending on how you tweak your BIOS: In Windows High Performance Power Option will make your CPU to work on the highest frequency and voltage. Thats how you can see the max CPU voltage with CPU-Z. Balanced will make your CPU to scale down when not in use (lowest frequency & voltage) and increase frequency & voltage on the go, when use it. It will constantly adjust frequency & voltage based on the CPU load. Power Save will try to use as low voltage & CPU frequency as it can. Ofc. that depends on how you set your BIOS settings. Sometimes doesnt matter what Power Profile you use because of the BIOS configuration. I guess thats the best I can explain this.

When OC run HWiNFO app. Very useful tool, it shows everything related to your system-temps, voltage, RAM & pagefile usage, errors, CPU, GPU, Motherboard, name it. Look for Windows Hardware Errors (WHEA). Its located at the bottom of the Sensor Status Window. If you see CPU Cache L0 Errors your OC most likely is not stable, try to increase eighter CPUcache voltage or CPU voltage with 0,005mv. If you still have same error increase again with 0,005mv until you have no more errors. If the voltage gets too high & CPU too hot lower the Cache Ratio.

I will add links to two pages with more info about BIOS settings:
Bios Options Explanations
AsRock Bios Settings For Best 5ghz Overclock

Video Overclocking Guide
If you're not experienced, copy the settings in the video. Its mostly the same settings for all bioses. Only the names are different. Doesn't matter if it's not your motherboard.

8700k & 8600k

Other OC Guides:

Kaby Lake/Skylake Overclocking

These are My Recommendations for AsRock Boards. I have AsRock Extreme 4 but it works on the others as well:

Introduction in Bios

Intel released a microcode patch for Meltdown and Spectre Vulnerabilities that reduces the CPU performance by 7-10% on Intel chips in last 2-3 months of 2016*. Board vendors start updating the Bios versions from the beginning of the 2017. So use older Bios version (before 01.2017) if you flash your Bios and avoid revision C2 & 84 for Sky and KabyLake like a plaque. Nobody will hack your gaming PC. These patches are mainly for companies. If you are using your PC just for gaming you dont need it, you will lose performance. New microcodes also can increase your CPU temps as well. Except that there are patches on Windows side. Use InSpectre to check if you have Windows patches & disable them & submit your score to CPU-Z & when you see your score on their site it will show you if you have Intel microcode patch for Spectre & Meltdown in your bios or not.  If you updated to the new microcode you cannot go back and flash older microcode & you are stuck with less performance.

In the example below it says that my bios does not have microcode patch so my performance won't be crippled by 7-10%. Look further down to InSpectre screenshot to see how it have to be for you. It have to show System is Meltdown protected: NO & System is Spectre protected: NO.

(Meltdown and Spectre Vulnerabilities):
Intel Only

This tool checks Windows for Meltdown and Spectre vulnerabilities Updates & you can disable it on Windows level. If it shows "YES" on microcode - just means there is a new BIOS for your CPU with a security patch. The Windows Patch is slowing my 7600k 5Ghz down with around 3% in Cinebench. There are 2 levels of security - software & hardware. Windows Patch & Intels Microcode Update are software security measures. Intels 9000 Series have patched this & implemented in Hardware so the performance hit won't be as bad as 8000 series & before.
This is what you want to see

The performance hit is more visible on older CPUs. If you have the protections enabled the performance of your CPU has been decreased for sure, the question is "How Much". The microcode patch makes your CPU to work around 7-10% worse on new CPUs, older CPUs like Sandy Bridge can have up to 25% performance drop, along with higher temps. You can check your scores in Cinebench before and after the bios update to verify it and see the difference. Cinebench is more consistent in scores, thats why.



You can be fine with certain settings and crash after a month or more so make sure its 100% stable with MemTest64, Memtest, SuperPI or similar tool.

I give only a link for MemTest64 because its easier to use:

Select the Dram Frequency you want. For Higher OC (3000-3200mhz +) 

Set Dram voltage at 1.35v or higher (highest safe 24/7 voltage is 1.45-1.6)
(Intel CPU spec recommends RAM voltage to be below 1.65v to protect the CPU)

Set CPU VCCIO voltage at 1.20v, (highest safe 24/7 voltage is up to 1.25-1.27)

Set CPU System Agent voltage at 1.20v, (highest safe 24/7 voltage is up to 1.25-1.3)

They say: tRAS >= CAS +tRCD+tRTP (+/- 2) & tFAW >= 4x tRRD(_S)

There is a formula to calculate the "real speed" of the RAM:

cl (the 1st timing) x 2000 and device that on the RAM Frequency

And since I know some people are lazy here is an easy way 

If You Learn Something From This Guide  (Like That Formula For ex.), Please Consider Donating. Thanks.

If you have troubles with posting on higher speed & nothing else works increase DRAM Activating Power Supply.

You can try OC the RAM on XMP but it can cause problems with timings so I recommend to disable XMP if you aim for high OC. After you find the highest stable speed go to tRFC-set it to the lowest you can post - check the RAM JEDECs to see whats the lowest tRFC value. Thats usually around the lowest stable value or close to it. My HyperX FURY 2666mhz (OC to 3200mhz) RAM goes around 265-400 depending on the frequency and voltage.

When RAM OC keep the same (or similar) margins between the different timings. Remember, some XMP profiles increase the BCLK and that can cause issues when tweaking. For not so experienced people i suggest to set BCLK to 100 manually. Try to set the CAS Latency (tcl) tRCD & tRP as lowest as u can be stable, these are related/linked to tRAS. You can try to find online stable timings for your RAM kit for the first 4 or 5 timings and work from there. If you can set stable Command Rate to 1, do it but if you have instability go back to 2. Value of 2 is good for stability with 2 (keep it 2 on 4 or more RAM sticks). tWR & tCWL are related/linked. For tWR values below 10 can be unstable so for stability above that number. Leave tWTR_L on Default/Auto and lower the tWRRD_sg by 1 or 2. If you post then lower tRDWR_sg, tRDWR_dg, tRDWR_dr, tRDWR_dd, and tWRWR_dr & tWRWR _dd  options with 1 or 2. 

You also can set tREFI double the Default value. You can try the highest value as it helps alot (especially in benchmarks) but that can cause instability if it's too high, so if you have problems go back to double the default number or default. tREFI & Command Rate are tricky settings. You can add more voltage to try to stabilize them.

I use AIDA64, MemTest64, memtest, MemTweakIt (its ASUS app but it can be used to watch DRAM Efficiency Score, increasing tREFI lowers the score for some reason), ASRock Timing Configurator & Ofcourse CPU-Z.

 Increase IO-L Offset (A&B channels) to the highest you can post (maybe 1-2 below the highest for stability). Start Increasing by +1 at each step & if you post the IO-L should be lower value. Watch RTL CH:A&B. They need to be the same values or differ by 1 or 2. Ideally, for gaming, they should be same values. RTL is connected to IOL and CAS(tCL) values.

 Sometimes one IO-L offset channel can post but the other don't so if you increase both at once and doesn't post try to increase only one of them. They also must be differ no more than 1 value (A channel:22, B: 23 for ex). You can try to lower the IO-L Initial Value as well. For me 3 or 2 works fine on higher RAM voltage (4 is by default). You also could tweak RTL Initial Value as well but best leave it on Auto. Set ODT NOM around 80-100. You can disable the Fast Boot option (in RAM settings, not in Boot) - it can cause problems to RAM training sometimes.

You can try different approach: Leave the primary (first 4) timings and tweak the 2nd, 3rd & 4th timings. That way you can have more stable OC with similar results.

These will give you a nice performance boost (if done right) and will improve the responsiveness & hit-reg. Windows will become snappier & programs will start faster. Especially combined with higher CPU cache. Bad RAM OC can cause very bad hit-reg. Good RAM OC on the other hand will feel like you have slightly more time to aim and shoot.

So to summer up check these timings:
CAS# (tCL) ; RAS# to CAS# (tRCDtRP) ; RAS#(tRAS) ; Commsnd Rate(CR) - usually 1 (performance) or 2 (stability) ; Refresh Cycle Time(tRFC) ; CAS Write Latency(tCWL) ; rAS to RAS Delay ; Write to Read Delay ; tREFI ; tCKE ;tRDWRs ; IO-L Init Value ; IO-L Offset; tRDWR_sg; tRDWR_dg; tRDWR_dr; tRDWR_dd and tWRWR_dr; tWRWR_dd.

Adjust RTL/IO on Maximus VIII Series 



Speaking of overclocking you can overclock you mouse. You can increase the Polling Rate of the mouse if its overclockable. Not every mouse can OC. Actually you OC the USB port not the mouse itself. You can even OC the keyboard. There are already selling mouses with 2000hz and 4000hz polling rate on the market. With higher Polling Rate you can adjust if you have slightly higher sensitivity & in-game slider increments are too big. So if your sensitivity is slightly too high for you but lowering in-game mouse sens &/or DPI makes it too slow for you, increasing the polling rate will help you with that (increasing FOV, Texture (Anisotropic) Filtering and Texture Resolution help with that as well but FOV & Texture Resolution can affect the responsiveness a bit if they're too high). AA too but most players won't use AA in competitive...Anisotropic filtering uses very few system resources.

I heard that 500hz is better because of something technical (i dont remember) or that feels more natural. Thats a personal preference although many people cant feel the difference, well I can. Also that your hand movements are not that fast to benefit from the higher refresh rate but they forget that you dont just move the mouse, you also click the switch/push the button and that can be detected faster with higher polling rate which means you shoot earlier. But if your CPU is using 100% when gaming you might wanna consider lowering the polling rate to 500hz.

Also use black mousepads because other colors, pictures ect. can affect the mouse sensor performance. On some sensors it's very obvious and the mouse feels weird, on others not so much but can also affect them, the difference is somewhat hard to spot so keep that in mind. These days mouse sensors getting better and better every year but as a rule of thumb use a black mousepad to avoid that issue (or at least use pads with just one color-green, blue, grey ect). Or just swap the black area of the mousepad if you have a big one. This could potentially improve your aim a bit if you had that issue before and you didn't know it.

It was difficult in Windows 7 & 8 and few months after Windows 10 came out but now the drivers are digitally signed by Microsoft which means it's easier and no more Test Mode. Unfortunately with every new major Windows Update, Microsoft ruins it. Higher polling rate uses slightly more CPU but it can increase accuracy & help with your aim. In Battlefield Texture Filtering (Anisotropic filtering) also can "stabilize" your mouse & help with your aim. I dont see any reasons why thats not the same in other games.
Install the driver. Choose 1kHz, or 2kHz-4kHz, or 4kHz-8kHz & run the batch file in the driver directory. Run setup, check Mouse Only, choose your mouse, check "filter on device", install service, restart, restart computer the first time. Run setup. Repeat if necessary. First time you OC the mouse lower polling rate to be sure it works. If it lowers the polling rate then it works, if you can't make it run on a higher polling rate then your mouse can't be OC.

You should know that in 2-4000hz driver 31=2000, 62=4000 and in 4-8000hz driver 31=4000hz, 62=8000hz. Yes you can potentially OC your mouse to 8000hz Polling Rate.

                                                               Check it Out:

The common opinion is low dpi gives you the best aim. Higher dpi + low in-game sensitivity is slightly faster & more accurate but have to have steady hands (i think its better for Snipers). Most pro players use low dpi. I think a part the reason is because many FPS players come from CSGO & this is low sensitivity game. People just copy them & are used to play like that. Low DPI will keep your aim longer on the same spot mitigating the weapons recoil a bit and help with shaky hands.

 The in-game sensitivity handles the mouse sensitivity differently than the dpi. In some games it's just multiplayer to your dpi. The mix from both dpi & in-game sensitivity is the best & most common user settings. So not too high DPI & not too low in-game sensitivity.

Old mouse sensors were not that good back in the day but these days the good mouses are better suited for higher dpi and low dpi can perform worse than higher depending on the mouse sensor. That doesn't mean you can't play on low dpi. But if you use high sensitivity I encourage you to try only dpi & 0, 1 or 2 in-game. You have more precision but not good for shaky hands. In BF4 0 in-game & 1800dpi is = to around 10-11 ingame and 400dpi. Someone told me that 400dpi+12 in-game is the best for 1080p, something to do with math. That makes 800dpi+6. So for 1080p you can try around these numbers. 

PS: Thank God BattleNonSense made a video so now all the noobs know that higher DPI is faster :D Its laughable but also Sad to see how fake Gurus who claim 10+ years of experience get so hyped about that well known fact & immediately change the sensitivity they used for years to exactly 1600 DPI. LMAO.

Povohat's Mouse Accel (Comunity Based Mouse Driver)
It introduces "good" mouse acceleration, not like the crap Windows "enhance pointer precision". The main difference is that you can set an acceleration cap (+ other settings) and you don't lose your muscle memory. So you can twitch faster when 1 on 1 with someone and turn quicker on him when hip-fire for ex. It can potentially be a big thing if you learn how to use it. A guy called Povohat extracted the Quake Live commands & KovaaK made the GUI. There's an old article about mouse acceleration in Competitive Gaming, just for reference. I will leave a link to a very good site that explain the mouse acceleration and why most people hate it. Honestly I dont play with Windows mouse acceleration but i can say that its hell of a lot better in last Win10 versions and its very subtle. For some people it could improve their aim, if you are used to play without it i suggest to stick to play without it but I can say it's a valid option even for competitive, it's more like a personal preference than anything else. Like I said- most people used only bad acceleration, others just read about it, never used it and decided thats bad because someone said so. I include this because its worth checking if you want to play with acceleration.

Download Driver:

Video Tutorial:

And since we talk about mouses I'll briefly mention the The MarkC Mouse Acceleration Fix. Everybody knows it, here's the link for convenience:

The MarkC Windows 10 + 8.1 + 8 + 7 Mouse Acceleration Fix:

This changes mouse acceleration. Thats it. You don't have to apply the fix every time you install new Windows. Whether you need it or not depends on your mouse sensor. Just check it with "MouseMovementRecorder" and if there are no colors your mouse dont need the fix. Just know when you go to the edges of the window you have colors anyway-that doesn't mean you have acceleration. Your cursor have to be in the center of the "MouseMovementRecorder" window.



Although its not that important for Windows 10 users for previous Windows 8 & 7 its mandatory. Windows 10 parks only 1 core (for 4 core CPUs) and the performance is the same with or without the unparking. But it doesn't hurt to do it. You can unpark the CPU from the CPU Power Settings from the Power Options if you unlock the hidden options. With the comands bellow you will unlock some hidden CPU settings and you can increase your CPU performance with them.

You can Unpark your CPU with these commands but It disables only Windows Core Parking not the Smart Parking in Sky/Kaby/CoffeLake CPUs :

powercfg -setacvalueindex scheme_current sub_processor 0cc5b647-c1df-4637-891a-dec35c318583 100

powercfg -setactive scheme_current

or you can use programs:

(You can disable the C states with the new version of Core Parking Manager called QuickCPU)
All the sliders on 100 & diesble the C-States


(programs use resources though)

 *Unlock Best CPU Power Settings in Power Options Menu:

Both tools have their pluses. ParkControll will tune the Power Plan better because it has more options but Quick CPU can disable the C-States. Quick CPU is the new ParkControl. Dont use old version. 
CPU Unlocker unlocks almost all CPU options (they are many). After you run the tool As Administrator it will open Power Options Menu. Click on the blue Change Plan Settings shortcut on High Performance or your custom Power Plan, then go in Change Advanced Power Settings & open Processor Power Management where you will see the new unlocked power options for your CPU to tweak.

You want to disable duty cycling & Allow Throttle States, leave Autonomous Mode enabled. Increase to 100% performance boost policy, performance core parking min cores to 100, energy performance preference policy to 0. If you want your CPU to work all the time on 100% like the old processors tweak Processor idle disable - but thats extreme, most people dont want that, I use it strictly for gaming sometimes. It uses more power so if you have unstable overclock your CPU might crash, you might have to increase the voltage slightly if that happens. Processor performance increase policy-set on Rocket. The others are intuitive.

 POWER THROTTLING. Speed-Shift has to be enabled for this to work so disabling does nothing if Speed-Shift is disabled in BIOS. Not sure for AMD CPUs. Dont disable it, especially on Laptops. Its a power-saving feature BUT not a typical one. If it is disabled the programs & processes in the back won't power throttle & will interfere with the game you play at the moment, so it does more than just power-saving. It actually complements Windows Game Mode which worked great in v1703 & above. ps: Desktop CPUs are powerful enough not to miss that feature & you can disable it but you lose a tool that handles the background processes which will use more power and compete with the processes you are using atm. People copy all kinds of tweaks that dont know what they do (or think they know) and then are surprised that Windows GameMode doesnt work. GameMode can give you a couple of FPS or slightly improve input lag for slow to mid-range systems but only if you dont cripple it with stupid tweaks.

There are many tweaks out there but what's best tweak & value for gaming is a different thing. Also there are several* kinds of Gaming Tweaks - for Performance, Efficiency & for better Picture. Remember that. Think & make your research. Only Google is not enough. Especially with this septic pool of misinformation & "wanna be" tweakers.

Unlock Windows Ultimate Performance Power Plan

CMD comand for v1803 and above
powercfg -duplicatescheme e9a/42b02-d5df-448d-aa00-03f14749eb61

for v1709 & before we have to import it in Windows



So about higher hz monitors. I cant stress enough how important that is. A few months ago I OC my monitor to 499hz (I play on 480hz though) & saw the improvements first hand. The picture is so much clearer (on lower resolution) that is not even funny. Although I have dropped frames its still an advantage because that directly lowers your overall System latency. Your aim also improves & your reticle/red dot isnt fluctuating as much. 

For BENQ Monitors from the Service Menu or Blur Busters Strobe Utility decrease the Strobe Duty and Strobe Fase to 0 or 1- lowest. This along with other monitor settings will make the monitor slightly faster & more responsive. You most likely can't feel the difference but its there and you will find you perform a little bit better in FPS shooters, if you are good enough player. Competitive gamers need every advantage they can get. Many people will say thats irrelevant because its just milliseconds - "your reactions are way slower that this", bla-bla. Thats bullshit, its not how it works & they're mistaken. Its hard to explain but basically this just shows the video signal slightly faster and you see the enemy real location/position a little faster. That's provided that you have strong enough system to render the image as fast as the monitor can show it. Monitors can show way more if they're fast enough. Its one of the bottlenecks that we can control (Depends also on your Internet Connection, lets assume its good enough). Let me rephrase - the monitor shows faster what the GPU is already drawn. Everybody with experience knows every millisecond counts in FPS shooters. 

BlurBuster for Benq-it controls the Service Menu:
Blur Busters Strobe Calibration Utility utilizes a hidden Service Menu in some of the Benq monitors. You can tweak these settings without it but its good tool non the less. If you have high refresh monitor is a must-have site & they most likely already made a review of your particular monitor. 

For Benq monitors you can enable the hidden Service Menu by holding down the 2nd button from the left and turn on the monitor (it can differ on some models, just try with every button). After that you can turn on/off (show/hide) the Service Menu with the 4th button from the left. Thats it. It will work on other similar models but the buttons might be different.

My Settings:
Brightness 100, Contrast 50, LowBlueLight-0, BlurReduction-OFF, AMA-High (it's not faster than Premium but I see enemies sharper). InstantMode-ON of course, Sharpness-5 (default-increasing may increase the input lag slightly but could improve your aim. Test it) R=88, G=81, B=95. First enable AMA, then InstantMode. At least thats the case with Firmware v.2. Its fixed in later revisions. 
Of course these settings can be applied to all monitors.

You can also OC the refresh rate of your monitor. You can do it from Nvidia Pannel or CRU

For AMD & Nvidia you need this for DVI and HDMI to unlock higher bandwidth & higher OC potential:
Now I wanna talk a bit about the old mechanical HDD vs SSD. This is what i think: When you start the game it loads all the assets like objects, textures ect to the System Memory (RAM). Thats why some ppl have bad performance at the beginning of the round, because the game still loads the assets & that depends on the storage speed. In games with big open worlds, like Battle Ryales where the map is too big & its separated to different sections (and even servers), you can have a similar bottleneck when transitioning from one section to another and the game starts loading new assets to the System Memory. This usually happens for few seconds but might take longer (again depending on your storage speeds, even your internet connection if its too slow). In this moment, with a slow drive you can have stutters or FPS hit, this will be measured by the software, when making a benchmark, as lower FPS & thats why I think some people say SSD has better FPS than a HDD (good one). But after that initial load, the storage is far from its max speeds. This happens for a brief moment of time and its not indicative of the whole game experience. Just like occasional stuttering will show lower 1% & min. FPS, but doesnt show the whole picture. Faster SSD might affect RAM usage (use less or allow you to use more RAM, if u have the capacity, that depends on the game), while HDD has to store a lot of data in RAM to avoid stutters (guess why page file exists), but thats about it. Fast storage will reduce load times & games will have bigger & more detailed worlds/maps, no one is talking about FPS improvements.

Thats why its important to be able to read & interpret the data not just showing test results without context. So if the game is properly optimized you should not see any difference outside a normal variation, maybe, just maybe few FPS more in very demanding games. We are still not there yet. If there was an actual FPS difference there are plenty of good youtube channels that know how to test properly. Dont you think there should be at least 1 video from some of them, explaining why? ye, thats not really a question xD


Since my content is for competitive gaming I want to cover everything that can give you an edge, no matter how big or small.


Desktop Window Manager (DWM)
Fullscreen Optimization

Fullscreen Optimisation Mode is enabled by default since build 17093. It's part of Windows Game Mode optimizations. It improves Dx12 games performance, depending on whether is true Dx12 or Dx11 port & the Win. version, thats why this option exists in the Compatibility tab. Many people think that since alt-tabbing is slower when playing games, that means the game runs with increased input lag. It can improve your gameplay in Dx11 games but if its Dx12 title your game will most likely have a higher input lag. It is not a mandatory tweak, use it only if FSE is not working in a Dx11 game or have problems like stutters or high input lag. It could be better to disable it in the Registry but you can have worse latency in Dx12 titles that way.

 In the early implementations, GameMode didn't work properly (It was too aggressive but more effective when doesnt stutter. GameMode should be more effective for Dx12 titles where it tries to mitigate the latency penalty from not running in real Fullscreen mode. As of now, Nvidia plans to implement some Multiplane overlay functions to reduce the delay DWM is causing. It uses overlapping to blend different layers on different parts of the screen. It will process one part of the screen at a time. Judging by the way it works, it could probably remove a good portion of the input lag penalty (significant improvement). These functions are not new, they're here since WDDM v1.3 but it's safe to say they wont work on the older Win. versions, like v1709, because of the discontinued support. It could mean that we can have new options in Nvidia Control Panel or just to be added only in the developer tools, to be implemented directly in game engines & kernel. 

The whole Compatibility tab is for debugging & fixing old programs when dont work properly, Win10 is Dx12 OS so Dx11 is considered "last gen" & thats why this option is there. So Disable FSO is kinda like Hyperthreading - it depends on the gameTHIS IS NOT A RULE. A separation must be made b/w Dx12 & Dx11 titles. Dx12 titles benefit from FSO, Dx11 & some Dx12 ports not. No matter the title, video settings in game should be always on Fullscreen for better input lag. Alt-Tabbing is slower in some games because Windows needs time to exit out of the Fullscreen mode and go to Desktop (slow Desktop transition can also be a mismatch between the in-Game Resolutions/refresh rate and Desktop settings). This is just Windows "switching gears", this is not a telling sign or proof that the game runs with higher input lag. The reason why alt-tabbing is faster on Borderless or Windowed modes is because the Desktop is already buffered. FSO is Optimized Borderless Mode. You essentially play on the Desktop and the GPU renders both Desktop & the game at the same time so WIndows doesn't need to "switch gears" when alt-tabbing, Desktop is already rendered along with everything that happens in the background- This Causes Input Lag. You can potentially fix slow alt-tab by disabling the desktop composition (which I dont think it can be fully disabled in Win10 without disabling DWM) or forcing the legacy alt-tabbing mode. 

Now a different conversation altogether is that this Fullscreen Mode is not a real Fullscreen but this is the closest "to the metal" as Microsoft allows us to be without completely disabling DWM. In FSO is easier to implement different kinds of overlays in the form of notification pop-ups or when you use your headphones or keyboard to lower the volume or brightness for ex. In FSE thats still possible but harder to implement & risking a crash, especially when Alt-Tabbing to Desktop or a program, and Dx12 will soon be the only API that the games will be created and they dont use FSE but still are faster than Dx11 titles. Microsoft is slowly implementing the Dx12 improvements and Nvidia & AMD are following with their drivers. Things like Mesh Shading, Variable Rate Shading & 
Variable Resolution are not possible in Dx11 but they lower the CPU usage & improve performance significantly. You still can disable FSO in registry or disable DWM to have better responsiveness. In my GPU Booster program I have the option to Disable DWM and Enable it back alongside Start Menu, Search bar & the rest of other Modern UI elements that you disable with DWM. I recommend for most people disabling DWM only temporarily.

The games which use administrator mode are counting on one hand of Yakudza gang member (if you know what I mean :D) so Run As Administrator for a game .exe is useless & pointless. If a game uses Administrator rights, it will run As Administrator itself automatically. This usually has something to do with Anti-Cheat program or other additional software like a launcher or something else, anyway. If someone tells you to do that just let him know he's a noob.

Desktop Composition

The desktop composition is a feature, introduced in Windows Vista and this changed the way visuals work & how the image appears on the screen. In Windows XP for example, the different windows & programs were created directly to the screen on the go. Nowdays, in Win10, the visuals are being buffered in video memory and then rendered on the display. When something is changed on the screen Windows changes only that part, this saves resources but adds small delay. That's why people see snappier mouse movement when DWM is disabled. But that cannot be applied automatically for all the games because they work differently & Windows changes the way it behaves when detects a game. (Composition is beneficial for Desktop but bad for games. People need to make that difference. Good for Desktop because it prevents the Shell to refresh constantly which is not needed & saves power (longer battery life for ex), but when its disabled sometimes the display can get jittery cause of the constants refreshes & its not a good experience, especially for less powerful PCs. Bad for games because that causes a delay. Thats why Microsoft introduced the Game Mode - to mitigate some of that delay but only to a certain extent, it does not disable the composition. (people blindly copy tweaks and disable the features that Game Mode uses). This increases progressively over the years with Win7 -8 & now 10. Microsoft implements DWM & embeds it further & further into the OS and it gets harder & harder to disable it. First it was just an option then a service, now it's a separate process & includes multiple dll's & and exe & it's mandatory to use the Modern UI.

Disabling DWM forces Windows to disable Hardware Optimization which in simple terms means that the CPU will be more involved in rendering the Desktop and programs, not the more powerful & optimized for that GPU but it skips that extra step that causes that slight input lag everyone hate (changes the way CPU & GPU interact is more accurate to say). Some programs will use more CPU than normal although that's not a rule. Disabling DWM still has its positives though (like slightly less GPU usage & better 1%, 0.1% lows & input lag, depending on the hardware). 
Capping FPS is recommended if you have stutters, lags, want lower temps, lower GPU/CPU% & have less (or around the same) FPS than your monitor hz 
(again, like Hyperthreading it's game depended). If your GPU is above 95-97% then its better to cap your FPS (if
 the FPS is lower than your monitor refresh rate you can do it without fear you will get negatives). If the FPS is higher it get slightly more complicated. In general u have to cap 4 fps below your monitor hz. Provided is done properly you can improve your input lag. But games with Nvidia Reflex works better because capping FPS adds 1ms delay in the best case scenario. At least with external tools. Its always better to cap FPS from the game, if it has that option. Its still preferable to play in a CPU-bound scenario because you get additional performance by higher FPS & lower frame times while have the best possible input lag. Reflex does nothing in this case, in fact it can have a negative effect if use it that way. Now the fastest native monitor is 360hz but I would argue that 300fps is the minimum for FPS Shooter to be responsive enough for competitive gaming. Just because the mouse "feels" smoother (which is purely subjective & many times placebo) doesn't mean it's better for gaming.

Here some examples. Read carefully what they say in the beginning:
"But sometimes, it results in a drop in the frame rate (FPS) when in full-screen mode."
"Fullscreen optimizations may lead to better gaming and app performance when they are running in fullscreen mode. However, some people have reported that fullscreen optimizations don't always improve gaming and app performance."

Another good article explaining what's FSE and FSO.

I would add that "performance" here most likely (99%) means throughput/FPS, not input lag & latency. And while I don't believe Microsoft when saying the "Performance" is the same I know that the FPS is the same. Is it buggy-yes but when it works as intended it actually lowers the input lag, just use Windows GameMode and learn how to tweak Windows without breaking it along with its features and then complaining from stutters or worse performance. Oh and at the end to make things more confusing: "GPU scaling engages when games are played only in full-screen mode, and not in windowed or borderless windowed mode."-Nvidia. Is that relevant for Optimized Windowed Mode? IDK.

Please, someone educate these people !

These Are The Processes That DWM Supports. 



HPET has to be enabled in bios and disabled in Windows. It's disabled in Windows by default & should be Enabled in BIOS by default. If your BIOS doesnt have HPET option its enabled by default. Thats about the only thing you should know frankly. If HPET is enabled in both bios & Windows it will enable HPET and that's not good. You will have around 1/3 less FPS in games & stutters. You can try different timers, twist and turn but you won't have better results than defaults in Windows 10, doesn't matter if its 3,70 or 10,000mhz. Some say that the mouse feels better, idk about that because it's highly subjective. If you care more about Online Gaming than Desktop use, dont use bcdedit commands (only if you know what you are doing). They are for troubleshooting. Only a few helpful commands can be used but none of them improves Gaming Performance. U can get better DPCs or ISRs with some commands but that doesnt affect gaming, only Desktop use.

Many people who just copy/paste these commands have stutters after that. In that case you have to delete these commands. Timer Tool & TimerResolution tools make a slight difference for gaming in Windows 10, you can argue 0.5ms is better than 1ms but not by much & it should use more power. Still, I use it when "tryharding". Windows Timers automatically get on 1ms when detect a game. This tool is made for audio processing & it slightly increases the latency in AIDA64 when test the RAM just being in the background. 

This is a unique program. It can fix undetectable for most users problem.
If you have stutters/micro stuttering in games you should try this tool to check if your timer is properly set if you mess with that.

(Use If You Have Stutters From Enabling HPET)
bcdedit /deletevalue useplatformclock
Disable other timers
bcdedit /deletevalue tscsyncpolicy
bcdedit /deletevalue disabledynamictick

Check it with this command:
bcdedit /enum

Read the Link on the Topic:

LapTop OC Tools

LapTop Performance Boost

Alternative Software Overclocking


Use These tools at your own risk. They can damage your Power Adapter or LapTop or both permanently!

Intel® Extreme Tuning Utility (Intel® XTU)

 This program is working on basically all Intel CPUs from the 3000 to 900 series It has built-in benchmark and monitoring software. If you read the whole tutorial + the video you will know what to do. There is no shortcut here. You have to know what to do otherwise you can brake your laptop.


(for Intel Core 2 & Core I CPUs)

Most LapTop Bioses don't support Overclocking so this software is good alternative. It can be used on Desktop computers as well. On locked CPUs for example. Both programs can.

ThrottleStop can bypass the CPU throttling. You can disable the power saving features like C-states, SpeedStep, SpeedShif ect, You can Increase the Multiplier, BCLK, TDP ect. if your system support it.

You also can undervolt to increase the battery life & lower the heat. If CPU throttle it can increase the performance. Both programs allow it. I'll leave few links which I strongly recommend to read. If you set the power above your Power Adapter you can damage it along with your LapTop.

WARNING: ThrottleStop is an Intel Core 2 and Core I performance monitoring and modification tool. Some manufacturers throttle CPU performance to protect their motherboards or the power adapter from being damaged so keep that in mind before making any changes. Using ThrottleStop to overclock or undervolt your CPU or to disable a laptop manufacturer's throttling scheme may damage your computer and it's at your own fucking risk.



1,3,4 & 5

(Console Commands & cfg)

For BF4: Uncheck "Enable video background for this device/browser" In Settings in your Battlelog Profile. For some reason it uses around 10% of your CPU. Turn Off Origin In Game and notifications. If you have directX related issues go C:\Program Files (x86)\Origin Games\Battlefield 4\__Installer\directx\redist and run DXSETUP.exe file to update/fix your directX version. Sometimes that could be from unstable GPU overclock and/or overheating. If you have serious issues with video drivers and want to remove them you might have to use DDU. It works best in Safe Mode but you can use it normally as well. Be careful, this tool can ruin your Windows if done wrong.

 You can also Repair Battlefield from Origin with right click on the game. If you don't have enough RAM & you have lag you cant try fix it using x32 bit version of the game. 

*My .cfg File for BF4

Place it in Battlefield 4 folder:  C:\Program Files (x86)\Origin Games\Battlefield 4

PerfOverlay.DrawFps 1

WorldRender.PlanarReflectionEnable 0
WorldRender.MotionBlurEnable 0
WorldRender.MotionBlurQuality 0
WorldRender.MotionBlurMaxSampleCount 0
WorldRender.MotionBlurRadialBlurMax 0
WorldRender.MotionBlurForceOn 0
WorldRender.MotionBlurFixedShutterTime 0
WorldRender.MotionBlurMax 0
WorldRender.LightTileCsPathEnable 0
WorldRender.DxDeferredCsPathEnable 0
WorldRender.SpotLightShadowmapEnable 0
WorldRender.SpotLightShadowmapResolution 64
WorldRender.TransparencyShadowmapsEnable 0
RenderDevice.Dx11Enable 0
RenderDevice.Dx11Dot1Enable 0
RenderDevice.Dx11Dot1RuntimeEnable 0
RenderDevice.StereoConvergenceScale 0
RenderDevice.StereoSeparationScale 0
RenderDevice.StereoSoldierZoomConvergenceScale 0
RenderDevice.VSyncEnable 0 
PostProcess.DofMethod 0
PostProcess.BlurMethod 0
PostProcess.DynamicAOEnable 0
PostProcess.DynamicAOMethod 0
Render.VSyncFlashTestEnable 0
RenderDevice.RenderAheadLimit 1
RenderDevice.ForceRenderAheadLimit 1
RenderDevice.DxDiagDriverDectectionEnable 0
RenderDevice.TripleBufferingEnable 0
WorldRender.FxaaEnable 0
Render.DrawScreenInfo 0
PerfOverlay.FramefileLogEnable 0
GameTime.MaxVariableFps 500


Thread.JobThreadPriority (your CPU thread #) 
Thread.ProcessorCount (your CPU thread #) 
Thread.MaxProcessorCount (your CPU thread #) 
Thread.MinFreeProcessorCount 0

# If WorldRender.MotionBlurEnable is 0 other blur commands doesnt work. 

# If you want to see supression:
# WorldRender.MotionBlurEnable 1
# WorldRender.MotionBlurRadialBlurMax 1 

# WorldRender.MotionBlurFixedShutterTime 1
# If WorldRender.SpotLightShadowmapEnable is 0
WorldRender.SpotLightShadowmapResolution 64 doesnt work.

It works for all Battlefield games on Frostbite like BFH, BF3, BFV. Some commands wont work but most will. I cap my fps on 500 but you can change that. Just don't cap it to 60 if you have more fps because it's stupid. Only if you have stutters. Or don't care about performance. In that case why da fuck are you reading this...?!?

This is one of the best .cfg files as far as Im concern, it has all performance related commands:

I see many .cfg files with commands like: RenderDevice.DxDiagDriverDectectionEnabl-e 0 
its not correctly shown after the copy/paste from internet. You should fix that one.  RenderDevice.DxDiagDriverDectectionEnable 0 is the correct one. People actually think that's 2 separate commands and leave them both :D. Stop mindlessly copy/pasting, do your research.

C:\Users\User Name\Documents\Battlefield 4\settings\PROFSAVE_profile Settings

These are the most relevant settings. Of course most of them can tweak in game but there are few you can't. This will work for other BF games as well, where the commands are the same.

GstRender.AmbientOcclusion 0
GstRender.AnisotropicFilter 0  or  1 or 2
GstRender.AntiAliasingDeferred 0
GstRender.AntiAliasingPost 0
GstRender.ConsoleAntiAlias 0 - doesnt affect the performance but u still can disable
GstRender.EffectsQuality 0
GstRender.Enlighten 0 - can lower or disable the Sun/light glow effect 
GstRender.LightingQuality 0 - shadow detail
GstRender.MeshQuality 2 or 3- how far the game renders the world around you
GstRender.MotionBlur 0.000000
GstRender.MotionBlurEnabled  0
GstRender.PostProcessQuality 0
GstRender.ShaderQuality 0.000000 or 1.000000
GstRender.ShadowQuality 0 or 1
GstRender.StereoConvergence 0.000000
GstRender.Stereoscopy 0
GstRender.TerrainQuality 0
GstRender.TextureFiltering 0  or  1 or 2 - slightly affects mouse movement-can help with aim. Very slight performance drop.
GstRender.TextureQuality 0
GstRender.TransparentShadows 0
GstRender.UndergrowthQuality 0
GstRender.VSyncEnabled 0
GstRender.WeaponDOF 0
GstInput.Deadzone 0.002000 or 0.001000 or 0.000000 - for mouse responsiveness (0 is fastest)

GstInput.MouseRawInput 1 - Disables Windows mouse settings. 1 to 1 mouse input

Battlefield 4 Ports:
TCP: 80, 443, 9988, 20000-20100, 22990, 17502, 42127
UDP: 3659, 14000-14016, 22990-23006, 25200-25300 

there are more

Smart_Port_Forwarding App

how to:

Punk Buster Setup

Unzip the app and put it in the game directory (where the bf4.exe is located)
Start it & Click "Add a Game". Choose the game. Click "Update PunkBuster"

I will make a separate post for BF5 .cfg file when all the commands come out. In Alpha & Beta some commands were very buggy so need time.


Keep in mind that internet connection is the main factor but except ping there are other metrics and circumstances that make a connection good or bad. Death by High & Low ping players feels almost the same. Battlefield 3 & 4 tries compensate the latency and if you play vs good player with decent connection but live far from the server the game "overcompensate" & puts you in slight disadvantage. BF1 puts a cap on that compensation & you won't take damage above a certain threshold. I believe thats the case with BFV as well. In BF4 you have to pre-fire & aim ahead a lot if you play against such player. You see where he was a few ms ago not his real location (same vs low ping players too).



My PC is Maxed Out which means that I have the highest OC on my CPU, GPU, RAM and thats the ceiling of its PC performance. With that said I have i5 7600K and biosflashed GTX970 but the performance is more like I7 4790k and GTX 980 stock. This is the maximum performance with this configuration and possibly even slightly more with some Windows tweaks. In Cinebench my highest score is 900 (which is a lot for 4 core i5), in Valley Benchmark - 71,2fps (Extreme HD 1920x1080 8xAA fullscreen). Sadly my card has only 2 6-pins so the power delivery is stopping me to "unlock" the card. The ASIC Quality Rating is 77.3 which puts it among the first 14% in GPU-Z. 270-560fps in BF4 on 1080p LOW (Mesh-High).


My Setup is:

I5 7600k 5.297ghz (BCLK:103.8765)/ AsRock Extreme 4 
 HyperX Fury: 2x2666mhz OC:3200mhz-tweaked timings
GTX970 SuperJetstream - bios flashed 
GTX980Ti G1 Windforce - bios flashed 
 Kingston V300 & WD SSDs + Hitachi SSHD
 PSU: Fortron 700W 
Benq XL2411Z 144hz 1ms.
Redragon Mechanical Gaming Keyboard 
Mouse: Cougar Minos X5 (2000hz) dpi:1800 Sens: 0 or 1400dpi +1 in-game
Headset - SONY Wireless MDR-RF810R & HyperX Cloud II Pro

My Best Score now is 911 in Cinebench R15. For 4 core CPU thats not a small amount.

Task Manager Tip

Just right click on the bar like on the screenshot and you will see more options to explore.

BTW remember “Windows Logo” + “X” keys on the keyboard.


 Also I feel people don't make a difference between Internet Gaming & Internet Browsing tweaks. And I've seen many gamers even good ones use obsolete registry tweaks, some of them even with wrong values. These work in Win 7 & 8, not in Win 10. For example look TcpMaxDupAcks - there is no 50 option. They are from 1 to 3, 2 is default & you do not want to change it. EnableDca - DCA doesn't exists in Win 10. 
 SynAttackProtect is not for gaming as well. I can continue but I made my point.


I even seen this for a gaming tweak (for Win10). 


 Many of these tweaks (& random values) don't do anything to gaming so when player adds them and see he plays good and have good scores automatically thinks they work & are good settings. That's a placebo effect.

Here's how cheaters do it. That's why the handcam in stream means shit. Pathetic little... Looks like a controller feature on consoles, maybe its somehow adapted to run on PC.


I decided to stop here because it is already a very long article. Maybe I'll give more optimization tips & apps which are not in the blog (or easier ways).

If you like the article comment below and tell me what you think. Is there something I missed? Aks me anything. You can write in the comment section down below.

If you learned something pls Donate, if you haven't learn anything - why you lieing :D
I mean if someone wants to support my work & buy me a drink you can Donate Or Consider Becoming a Patreon which will help me a lot. Thank You.



I want to clarify something. 
Command Rate 1 is faster but Command Rate 2 is more stable. Thats it. None of them is better or worse. its just what works at the particular speed, timing configuration & kit. There is some kids talking shit in discord & spread lies about me. Talking shit is a sign of weakness when you can't win an argument with facts. Disagreeing with me & then quoting something you read in google that supports my words means you dont understand what you read, noob :D You desperately need a brain & experience, boy. On 15years old you barely have hairs on your balls but you are already an expert in RAM overclocking :D ... #wannabeexperts & Google Warriors :D

This is The Kind of People Im Dealing With. Bark On Safe Distance :D
Bunch Of Lieing Bitches xD

What Kind You Are?

If You Gonna Use My Tweaks, Give Me a Credit. Dont Be Like This Guy Below!!!

This is not part of the guide. Skroll down below if you are not interested:
About CHEF-KOCH fake "review" of my guide. His Github page was banned and taken down because of the constant complains of this guy that steals their work. I commented on his page but he blocked my answer so I will post it in my Github page. The critic is afraid of criticism. So sad. Blocking people after you call them out and "review" them is low and unethical no matter what. Constantly missing the point & read like the Devil reads the Bible. He has a collection in his GitHub page but non of it is his, he just copy/paste. Even more - he steals from people like me & presents it as his content, not to mention that all his statements are read from somewhere else, he doesnt make his own testings and his point of view is from a casual (60 fps console pleb) standpoint. We are talking about someone who claims that C-states are quote "placebo" (He recently learned what C-states are and now recomends to disable them-he thought its something to do with SSDs LMAO) & also K-Boost is not good for gaming because quote "if a game doesn't use more than xyz MHz then it simply doesn't need more, you waste energy "- (this is true only if you play single players & other casual games, this guide is for competitive gaming, not for NOOBS like him. WE DONT PLAY MARIO). He doesn't see the relation between gaming and overclocking, claims that there is no difference at all between Balanced & High-Performance Power Modes in games & doesnt believe that increasing the base priority is better for gaming. I refuse to be corrected by such a misguided individual. That guy is no fit to make a review of anything game related. He's just learning. I bet he doesnt even play games. His skills end with how to use Google Search. No real knowledge. He directly copy/paste tweaks & information from my guide to his while says that my guide is bad. So Hypocritical. He even "recommends" the same Numa Scaling for the RSS Balancing Mode :D pls someone ask him why he recommends it. I bet he doesn't know. This is all that Chef-Koch does - read something on the Internet and copy/paste it, look at his page, good collection but nothing original. Copy/Pasted/Stollen from someone else. Even his own name is plagiarized. (
READ THIS. He steals from other content creators. Many people already saw what that guy is doing:

Above Is Taken From This Blog To His Internet Section. Bellow Is Someone Else's Batch File Copy/Pasted By Cheff-Koch. Pls Someone Slap This Imposter On The Head.

links to same screenshots:

I placed my initial, unedited answer at the end of the guide, if you want to read.  Not my guide is "questionable" but his ability to read & review properly.


There is a guy who placed my guide in a negative graph on his page in GitHub. I talked with the guy on Discord. The reason is because I mentioned disabling the page file and because I disable Cortana. He actually never read the whole guide. He also said that disabling the CPU C-states is a myth too. He obviously doesn't know what he's talking about. Another thing that became obvious he read old Microsoft Server documents. Server Optimization is just the opposite of Gaming Optimization and despite it's useful reading, it doesn't say anything about gaming or how to improve latency in games. I'm testing everything myself, making my own tweaks, not just using Google and Im very careful about the placebo effect. If something can't be measured with benchmark or test that doesnt mean its not useful. I know tweaks that have marginal difference in tests to have big difference in competitive gaming when every ms counts. When i say "gaming", thats what I mean, not 4k Ultra Graphics but Performance. Also im not doing this since yesterday, like many "Gurus" these days. He has not a bad collection of registry tweaks though (some obsolete). 

 ...what.... he thinks C-States are something related to SSDs?!?! LOLS. Im gonna place his ramblings as a NEGATIVE example too because he assumes without testing and just repeats what he saw on internet. Disabling Desktop animations even on the super high-end GPUs cause a small delay, that's something you can't avoid. People disable animations because they want a snappy experience and/or dont like animations. Well, some are just copying what they saw on internet. So you say you worked at Nvidia, doing what exactly!? I can put money on the table that its nothing to do with gaming or latency, or logic. Im sory im little agressive but people who dont understand think my guide is shit becasue see it in these negative examples.


Update: For new readers - just ignore this and read below.
If You Saw  "review" of my guide please make sure to read what i have to say about what he wrote so far at the end of the guide. I will expand when i see the rest of his rumblings. I am astonished by the level of incompetence. Don't worry my guide is legit. Its just the "reviewer" haven't read the whole guide (he admitted that but still placed the guide in his negative examples, that should tell you something about the guy's prejudices. He is just starting to read it but he placed my guide in negative examples - before his review is finished, LOL). Also takes words out of context, assuming wrong, probably many things are new to him (judging from his comments) & try to think logically (hopefully he wants to finish faster & read sloppy, otherwise he is just incompetent). He says that K-Boost & disabling C-states are placebo & doesn't help in gaming-this only, is one big RED FLAG about his competence. Another one is he talks about C-states in SSD section on his page. He obviously doesnt know what that is.

 I believe he is on a crusade to debunk placebo/false/old tweaks (and i agree with all examples he shows) but he's too impatient & reacts every time he reads a keyword like: page files, Cortana, prefetch in SSDs & all other things he believes that is outdated or wrong without the reading further & just assumes that the person is talking about that particular tweak.
 He shows that when he talks about "Cortana uses in general a lot of resources" & start talking about the bug that was fixed. I never mentioned that bug, he doesn't care what i say, he just saw the word "Cortana" & uses it as an excuse to say what he has on his mind :D This is ridiculous. There are other examples about this behavior, in fact, all of his "review" have the same pattern.

A command about blocking Cortana- paraphrasing his words: "that doesnt helps in gaming , that stops telemetry" DUH. Disabling Telemetry reduces overall system overhead, not everyone has high-end systems or want to be spied on.

I mentioned Nvidia Inspector & said few words about what the program does & can fix and he says that SLI is not for gaming. WTF dude ?! It also fixes stuttering on single cards. Picky. His proof that K-Boost doesnt work is a reddit consisting of 1 question & 1 answer of 2 random people. He is not even sure what K-Boost does. 

I place whats the difference b/w Cat5 & Cat6 to prevent misinformation because some "Tweak Gurus" say that Cat6 is faster for gaming which is BULSHIT and he says - that doesnt help in gaming - exactly what im saying but he put this in the incorrect graph on his page. Just SAD. And his "Positive Examples" are VERY short articles that mention OLD stuff :D I believe there is only one that is longer & actually decent.

Also, someone called  have Win10 Tweaks in Github and credit Chef-Koch's name when showing commands that are obviously copy/pasted from my blog (except 2 registry paths). I wonder why is that?! You can clearly see in the screenshots below that this is taken from my guide (Hit-Reg) when you scroll down, just some commands are removed.



  1. Fantastic thread man.Shame no on else appreciates the hard work you do/did. Thanks for buddy it helped out a lot.

    1. Thanks man, there are people who like what i do, i just wish they were more. I dont think people realize they can comment here :) I recieve mainly e-mails. Same with the differend parts of the blog. For most people is hard to find other pages. Well, lets say they are not obvious.
      Anyway, 10x for the comment dude. I appreciate it.

  2. Hello There. I found your blog using msn. This is an extremely well written article. I will be sure to bookmark it and return to read more of your useful information. Thanks for the post. I’ll certainly comeback. best quiet gaming keyboard

  3. where can we contact you for the process lasso crack?

  4. it was a wonderful chance to visit this kind of site and I am happy to know. thank you so much for giving us a chance to have this opportunity.. Logitech G903 LIGHTSPEED Gaming Mouse Review

  5. this is so good, improves my pc performance like, it's 300% WAY faster now !!
    did you find more tweaks ?

  6. Hey, I appreciate the efforts you have made for this blog your writing skills and knowledge is on point. Visitors can easily find information according to there need. Thank you for posting such type of blogs.

  7. That is really nice to hear. thank you for the update and good luck. kiu kiu

  8. It is an excellent blog, I have ever seen. I found all the material on this blog utmost unique and well written. And, I have decided to visit it again and again.

  9. Thank you for helping people get the information they need. Great stuff as usual. Keep up the great work!!! Generator

  10. should i disable complete c states or only c1e and intel speedstep?? i play cs go only. thx niko! <3

    1. Disable all Cstates but for speedstep depends on your motherboard. I leave it on my AsRock board because I have control over it with CPU Power Modes and can switch b/w High Performance when gaming & Balanced when not gaming.

  11. One of the best existing easy readable knowledge bases. Thanks for your work


  12. Wonderful content! Keep working on it! And if you have time......