Monday, 13 August 2018


Online Gaming Tweaks

For Enthusiasts & Competitive Gamers

The Road To

(This article is being updated occasionally so it could be little different the next time you read it).
This is the first thing you should do to be able to revert the changes if you have to !

How to make a System Restore Point : 
do it every time you make changes to Windows
 Right click on "This PC" - "Properties", then "System Protection". Then press "Create..." If it's not ON just select your C: drive click on "Configure" and Turn on "System Protection". Then press "Create..." & make a Restore Point. If you want to go back to your old settings click on "System Restore ..." & choose "Undo System Restore" or "Choose a different System Restore Point".

You can use the .exe I made to make SystemRestorePoint. 
It's just convenient instead to go to Restore Point every time:

It runs in the background for a few seconds & will show you a message if it is successful or not. Run As Administrator. If it gives you error run it a couple of times & should work. Let me know if it doesn't work for you in the comments or e-mail.

(If you want just to copy/paste step by step someone else's vague settings you got the wrong place. But If you actually want to learn something keep reading)

Disclaimer: This is not a step-by-step guide. This is about improving & customizing Windows. You can make your own testings to see the difference but I'm telling you right now the majority of the tweaks mostly improve latency & input lag, not FPS. You can have FPS boost depending on your hardware but do not expect your computer suddenly starts hitting 600+fps on Ultra. This is not realistic. That's why it's called optimization, not a miracle (Watch your min. FPS, 1%, 0,1% & Frametimes, not max FPS. Sometimes you can have few FPS less but better latency). If you want a faster PC, buy a new one. If you want to improve your system, hit-reg, your PC to run better & maybe fix some issues along the way please keep reading. Otherwise, fuck off. 

For reference this was my first computer in school:                                 My first personal computer was this:                                                   

I was a fucking casual back then but when I really started to get into computers & gaming was when Core 2 Duos came out. So please, before you girls start screaming consider that I might know something more than you casuals. This guide is aiming for lowest overhead possible and best hit-registration in online FPS Shooters. 

Before you see something you read is a myth & decide the whole guide is shit, you should read what's my opinion & what I say about it. I try to cover as many angles as possible here. 

The sections with "*" are whats the core of this guide. Everything else is just a filler. 


Join My Discord If You Are Interested

If someone wants to support my work or buy me a drink you can donate
("Sending to a friend" option if possible)
Link to my BFV page: Tweaks & relevant stuff. 
I'm updating it when I have something new.

Get Admin Rights
You will need Full Admin Rights to be able to make the changes.

"*"means "important"
These tweaks are good for all games.
Most people will be fine with Hit-Reg Optimizations and the performance tweaks from the PERFORMANCE_BOOSTER. I use most of the tweaks on fresh Windows installation or after Win Update. They are for people who want the best possible performance.  Plus you need to know what you doing so when a problem appears you won't freak out and be able to fix it. Windows pre-installation is not The Fix for everything.

This won't be a short one. So I suggest you take your time and read it bit by bit. I decided to gather some of the tweaks from my blog in one post and expand from there. Its a lot to read & a ton of tweaks but you don't need to read all at once.  Some people get confused what's where and when to do it so I added some points for reference.

1. Uninstall or disable Windows Apps & Windows Store.
2. Disable Cortana, Defender, Maintenance, Security Center, maybe Task Scheduler.
3. Disable Telemetry, Privacy & Data Collection (including through HOSTS file).
4. Turn Off Windows Features & Disable Services you don't need.
5. Performance & Hit-Reg Tweaks-Registry, Commands ect.-This is HUGE topic by itself.
6. Unlock the CPU Power Settings in Power Options Menu & Unpark your CPU.
7. Use G-Booster every time when gaming + OC your system.
If you have a laptop use ThrottleStop & Extreme Tuning Utility. Undervolt.

If I leave an old tweak it's because eighter it worked recently or its for older Windows 7, 8 & 10 versions. We still gonna disable the Telemetry to reduce the background workload & processes but this time more than a few Telemetry & Privacy settings, not just what Microsoft allows and gives you as options.

There are articles telling you how certain tweak is bad or have no benefit and shows you some benchmark or other tests. The thing is there are tweaks that can't be measured with benchmarks or they just use the wrong one. That doesn't mean there is no benefit.

                                 Everything internet related is for Cable Internet, not Wireless.
                                 Don't use the internet tweaks if you have Wireless Connection.

When I talk I'm gonna assume you know certain things and have some level of knowledge on the topic. Please, share this tutorial only with people who actually need it and want to learn. I don't make this for views. You can skip ahead if you don't want to read my "rumblings" but there is a lot of useful information if you are interested.

Most of the time Security is made at the expense of the performance. So in order to increase the performance, we need to reduce the security-keep that in mind. The good thing is we don't need security when gaming. For the people who know how - use a separate Windows only for Gaming and a second Windows installation if you use credit cards or bank accounts online.

First of all, use offline account in Windows 8 & 10. Why? Because I said so :) Seriously it uses fewer services & its less restrictive. v.1709 is better for gaming than v1803, v1809 & v1903. v1809 was Updated for Spectre & Meltdown which slows the performance (although you can disable them in registry), v.1809 have issues from the beginning but now is in a good state & you have to have it if you want to use RayTracing. v1903 is still not worthed, its "improved" v1809 but have kernel spikes. Delete programs & drivers you don't use & disable Telemetry (this is a vast topic btw). Defragment your hard disk (trim if SSD) & your Registry at least once per week (it helps with old Hard Disks). For normal Hard Disks regular Registry, Page File & MFT Defragmenting gives you a noticeable boost when loading Windows or a program. Dont defrag SSDs. Windows defrag tool will detect SSD and will only trim it, you can do this from time to time. Always have enough free space on your Windows Drive (minimum 15-25%). SSDs need more free space to operate optimally & have a longer life. BTW larger capacity SSDs are faster, in general. And since we are on the topic here's how to improve your Hard Disk speed. It's called Short Stroking. No, not that kind of stroking you dirty little monkey :)

After that install Windows on it (or your games if you have already Windows on SSD) and use the slow partition as little as possible - only for storage for example. Reinstall Windows every few months (I would say 6-8 max) because Windows is not Linux and it degrades over time. That's why you need to clean Disk & Registry from time to time on mechanical drives. Usually Windows does these things automatically but tweakers disable these features.

Oh, and for those who delete everything in SystemApps folder except ShellExperienceHost and then ask why StartMenu and Taskbar don't work:

That's why I'm saying that just removing and disabling blindly everything you can without causing Windows to crash after boot is not the right way to go. You need to put some thought about it. Does it benefits me, is it improves something, what I will not be able to use after that ect. Anyway, this won't give you any performance benefits, just will free 100mb of disk space. You can delete it as well but leaving File Explorer will prevent some problems.
Do Not Use 12gb RAM On DDR4 Systems. It Cripples The Performance.

That forces Windows to use Flex Mode. This is even worse than using only 8Gb of RAM. On DDR3 it's fine, well maybe. Here is a link to Intel page explaining the different types of memory modes: 

Single-channel, Dual-channel, Tripple-channel, Quad-channel & Flex Mode.

About page file. I recommend most users to leave it by default since this tweak have a marginal performance impact. Still, If you have 12-16gb of RAM or more you can disable Page File for older Windows versions or leave 300mb in Windows 10 & disable memory dump files if you don't use them (with this disabled you can even go with disabling page file completely but some programs don't work properly if there is no page file. This forces Windows to store the files in the RAM which is way faster than any SSD. That's needed if you have slow Hard Disk & 16GB+ RAM. Some people say there is no difference with SSD, I say there is a minor difference. If nothing else you will increase your SSD lifespan. If you have 2 Hard Disks put the page file to the one without the installed Windows. For 1 SSD & 1 Hard Disk (or more) - page file on SSD. For security reasons you can delete the page file every time Windows shuts down but this will slow down the process.

Update your drivers when playing a new game. For BFV you needed all the latest drivers ( you could of override this but you wouldn't have special optimizations for the game). If you have an old system I recommend updating only the critical drivers because in many cases drivers are not optimized for you and could have some sort of issue or worse performance. And know that sometimes you can have a bad driver update which could ruin your gaming experience causing delays, stuttering and other bad shit. I would stay away from Intel® Management Engine Driver. The best fix is to reinstall Windows if nothing helps. If you use cloud to synchronize your files reinstalling gets way faster & convenient.

*Turn off any software in the background while gaming, disable Maintenance. Disable all sound enhancements and lower the sample rate to CD Quality (or lower if you can - 32000hz is a good choice). Play on High Performance Power Plan or Ultimate Performance ( don't listen to those who tell you Ultimate is the worse performance, they don't know what benchmark to use in the first place but apparently know better than Microsoft. It will use more power though & might need more voltage for your OC), Set the Game on High Priority or Realtime from Task Manager. Remove CPU cores from Set Affinity to background programs you can't stop or use. Unpark your CPU. On Windows 8.1 or lower its mandatory, laptops too. Also on Win7 & I think Win8 you can lower the color quality*. Windows 10 is using different approach & you don't really need to unpark. It's still useful for responsiveness but If there is a performance difference, it would be negligible. It's still a good thing to do & If you do it anyway use programs made for Win 10. ParkControl by Bitsum for example-it also unlocks hidden Power Plan settings for CPU in Power Options. You can use Bitsum Process Lasso too. It's like Windows Task Manager on steroids. It also imports a custom Windows Power Plan called Bitsum Highest Performance. 

Bitsum Process Lasso
Real-Time PC Optimization Tool

You can use a free version but you lose some of the features. 


I extracted them from the program. They are locked in the free version but you can use them separately.

*Privacy & Optimization Apps

 These programs allow you to control critical system settings along with some Windows privacy and telemetry. Use 1 of them or 1 by 1 & restart PC after every time. I don't recommend to use all, 2, 3 at most but Restore Point before & after every program you use. Don't skip that. We do this because after Windows Update many options are being enabled again. That way some options will stay disabled. That means you have to be sure you disable only setting you won't use. You also can use my Telemetry Stop tool after you are done with the programs. It has more tweaks than some of these programs below. W10Privacy is a powerful but dangerous program so be careful. Use it only if you know what you're doing. WPD, Shutup10, AntiSpy are lighter and better for inexperienced people. There are more similar programs but these are enough.

O&O Shutup10


Ashampoo AntiSpy

Windows Privacy Tweaker


(use carefully. It can ruin your Windows. Make System Restore Point manually before using it. Only for advanced users)

Win10 Spy Disabler
*Telemetry Stop App:!VoY3HQ7D!yNgFouRslqp8TpXLUbTft4rtZQs--qoJ9rJSoMrMRuk

Disclaimer: Your Anti-Virus most likely will show my apps as false-positive. The file will show as some kind of virus or trojan but that's because i don't have a license, it's not signed & submitted to Windows and Anti-virus database. That's common for many portable programs. So don't worry. In reality, it's a converted batch file so there is no virus in the file, just useful commands. It won't harm your Windows. So to summer up - the people with faint hearts to stay away and don't use them if they worry for viruses. No viruses!
But if you use them they will free system resources, reduce used background bandwidth & give you an extra level of tweaking. I would use the programs first & after that use my apps to avoid incompatibility & assure the tweaks are not overwritten. Windows changes the service dependencies often lately. I'm giving you both ways- apps & batch files. They might share mostly similar options but the values are what makes an option good, better or bad for gaming.
*With that said these tweaks & files are working for me, they might not work properly on all systems & Windows versions or maybe they worked fine until certain Windows Update. Just know shit can happen any time. Keep that in mind and don't blame me if you fucked up something or have issues. If you do this by the book you have to be able to reverse every change you make to your Windows. If you experience problems please write a comment below. I need to know what to improve or fix.

Disable_Cortana_SearchUI_Telemetry & Voice Recognition:
Make System Restore Point before every tweak

Turn Off Search Indexing. Right click on your Windows drive in Explorer -Properties & uncheck "Allow files on this drive to have contents indexed ....",click to ignore errors

After that make these commands into a batch file and run it As Administrator. I'll leave a link to download. You can use some of the apps and disable Cortana from the there but in most of the cases, the commands I give are more effective & have more tweaks than the apps. If you want to disable something completely use mine after the apps (restart every time). Before running the batch file disable search box in Taskbar like on screenshot bellow & don't enable it after that because it could force Windows Explorer to refresh itself indefinitely & Desktop will be unusable. To fix it you have to run the batch file again (use TaskManager) or go back with System Restore Point. This also happens when run PERFORMANCE BOOSTERv3.5 script because this batch is included there.

Disclaimer: There are articles and people who will say disabling Index & Cortana is not working, myth/placebo and have no performance improvements. It uses not a small amount of system resources. This causes additional overhead to your hard disk & CPU. This additionally slows down the system, especially old mechanic Hard Disks. If you don't use it disable it. Why something you don't use to be active.

Download the batch file:!R5hFUKbC!ABjtwGhwoGuWe5k-g421c88ZbqDFA6Z14vF5gZdDiUU

sc stop "WSearch"
taskkill /F /IM SearchUI.exe
move "%windir%\SystemApps\Microsoft.Windows.Cortana_cw5n1h2txyewy" "%windir%\SystemApps\Microsoft.Windows.Cortana_cw5n1h2txyewy.bak"
Reg.exe add "HKCU\Software\Microsoft\Windows\CurrentVersion\Search" /v "AllowCortana" /t REG_DWORD /d "0" /f
Reg.exe add "HKCU\Software\Microsoft\Windows\CurrentVersion\Search" /v "BingSearchEnabled" /t REG_DWORD /d "0" /f
Reg.exe add "HKCU\Software\Microsoft\Windows\CurrentVersion\Search" /v "CortanaEnabled" /t REG_DWORD /d "0" /f
Reg.exe add "HKCU\Software\Microsoft\Windows\CurrentVersion\Search" /v "SearchboxTaskbarMode" /t REG_DWORD /d "0" /f
Reg.exe add "HKLM\SOFTWARE\Policies\Microsoft\Windows\Windows Search" /v "AllowCortana" /t REG_DWORD /d "0" /f
Reg.exe add "HKLM\SOFTWARE\Policies\Microsoft\Windows\Windows Search" /v "AllowCloudSearch" /t REG_DWORD /d "0" /f
Reg.exe add "HKLM\SOFTWARE\Policies\Microsoft\Windows\Windows Search" /v "ConnectedSearchUseWeb" /t REG_DWORD /d "0" /f
Reg.exe add "HKLM\Software\Policies\Microsoft\Windows\Windows Search" /v "ConnectedSearchUseWebOverMeteredConnections" /t REG_DWORD /d "0" /f
Reg.exe add "HKLM\SOFTWARE\Policies\Microsoft\Windows\Windows Search" /v "DisableWebSearch" /t REG_DWORD /d "1" /f
Reg.exe add "HKLM\SOFTWARE\Policies\Microsoft\Windows\Windows Search" /v "AllowSearchToUseLocation" /t REG_DWORD /d "0" /f
Reg.exe add "HKLM\SOFTWARE\Policies\Microsoft\Windows\Windows Search" /v "AllowCortanaAboveLock" /t REG_DWORD /d "0" /f
Reg.exe add "HKLM\SOFTWARE\Microsoft\Speech_OneCore\Preferences" /v "ModelDownloadAllowed" /t REG_DWORD /d "0" /f
Reg.exe add "HKCU\Software\Microsoft\InputPersonalization\TrainedDataStore" /v "HarvestContacts" /t REG_DWORD /d "0" /f
Reg.exe add "HKCU\Software\Microsoft\InputPersonalization" /v "RestrictImplicitTextCollection" /t REG_DWORD /d "1" /f
Reg.exe add "HKCU\Software\Microsoft\InputPersonalization" /v "RestrictImplicitInkCollection" /t REG_DWORD /d "1" /f
Reg.exe add "HKCU\Software\Microsoft\Personalization\Settings" /v "AcceptedPrivacyPolicy" /t REG_DWORD /d "0" /f
Reg.exe add "HKCU\SOFTWARE\Classes\Local Settings\Software\Microsoft\Windows\CurrentVersion\AppContainer\Storage\microsoft.microsoftedge_8wekyb3d8bbwe\MicrosoftEdge\ServiceUI" /v "EnableCortana" /t REG_DWORD /d "0" /f >nul
netsh advfirewall firewall add rule name="SearchUI.exe Telemetry" dir=out action=block program="%SystemRoot%\SystemApps\Microsoft.Windows.Cortana_cw5n1h2txyewy\SearchUI.exe"
 Retstart PC after that !

Group Policy Editor for Windows 10 Home:!opxSEYYJ!-7Y-gdzFCBBwS-czx7nM2YJ3U19Nmo_04DYKt2sq5I8

You can disable various Windows features including Defender & Cortana with Group Policy Editor. Type gpedit.msc in RUN or Search.

In Group Policy Editor - Computer Configuration Administrative Templates > Windows Components - there are the whole bunch of options you should disable along with Windows Defender ones. You also can disable Cortana from Group Policy Editor. Windows Home users don't have a Group Policy Editor but I got you covered ;) They can install it. Enjoy :)

*Disable Windows Services

You can do it manually or use the batch files in the link. Also disable Windows Defender when gaming, especially if you have other Antivirus Software (which you should disable temporarily as well).  

Disable Windows Store Apps:
(except Calculator & Windows Photos)

Disable_Defender (Permanently) 
If you use this tool the G-Booster stopping Defender temporarily (pause it) most likely won't work.

Windows 10 Game Mode

In v1709 & v1803 you can use Gaming Mode by pressing Windows key & G and check "use Game Mode on this game".  Don't use it in previous Windows versions because its buggy & can cause stuttering & other problems. Windows Game Mode prioritizes all system resources to the game you play to lowers the latency and get the best possible performance + small FPS boost for slow PCs. 

*My GamingMode 
The latest improved version is integrated in G-Booster

It temporarily frees system resources by disabling many of the services you dont need for gaming, raising priority, optimizes the memory, switch to High Performance. Disabled Services will start as normal after PC restart. So the app will reduce CPU, internet & RAM usageThere is no window, it runs in the background for about 20 sec (it's much faster in G-Booster, 2-3 sec). Run it as Administrator, you can check Services in Task Manager to see which services are being disabled. Few new services are not included in this version but you can disable them manually from Task Manager after running my GameMode. 100% safe & working. I make these tools for me & try to include useful tweaks & what I want from such a program. Otherwise, there is no point creating them, I'll just download something from the internet.

Some people think if they have enough RAM its ok to leave services enabled. That's not true. They can slow down the system, especially on 4 core CPUs when you use 85-100%. Even if you have 16 threads this can slow down the responsiveness. Windows Defender is a good example for slowing your PC in games or benchmarks. For casual gamers that's not a big problem but if you want better performance that's a must.

If you disable manually, start with UPnP Service. It causes trouble to DICE devs since BFBC2. Don't disable a service you actually use. This is different for every user. If you use bluetooth for ex. don't disable Bluetooth Support Service. The trick is not to blindly disable everything you can but to know what causes a problem & fix it and leave those which doesn't have performance hit or might use someday.

When im gaming & use my GameMode I reduce all services to around 25-32 after that I disable few more manually if there are such.  This lowers the latency when test with Latency Monitor & TimerBench.

There is a new version I'm working on but these will do just fine for now.

update NEW

So let me clear some up. When i say "it should work", that means it's not tested & I just assume that.  
p.s.:If you want even better latency go install Windows XP. 
This is different than my PERFORMANCE_BOOSTER batch file (which will reduce the services down to around 25. They can become as low as 19 if using my Game Mode)



Safer to use!lhRWAIrZ!aLhh1qSlcmdkYGZhHnBE68W8ZpSgm8IQ2MdGzeKaFCM

Keep in mind these are not optimal and my settings are slightly aggressive and you might have issues if you use something I don't. It leaves only the most necessary services. I don't disable Windows Firewall but disable Defender, Windows Store & Cortana because I dont use them and there is no need to use system resources. Cortana is also related to telemetry and data collecting. 

Reg.exe add "HKLM\SOFTWARE\Microsoft\Windows\CurrentVersion\Explorer" /v "SmartScreenEnabled" /t REG_SZ /d "Off" /f
Reg.exe add "HKCU\Software\Classes\Local Settings\Software\Microsoft\Windows\CurrentVersion\AppContainer\Storage\microsoft.microsoftedge_8wekyb3d8bbwe\MicrosoftEdge\PhishingFilter" /v "EnabledV9" /t REG_DWORD /d "0" /f
Reg.exe add "HKCU\Software\Microsoft\Windows\CurrentVersion\AppHost" /v "EnableWebContentEvaluation" /t REG_DWORD /d "0" /f
Reg.exe add "HKCU\Software\Policies\Microsoft\Windows\Explorer" /v "DisableNotificationCenter" /t REG_DWORD /d "1" /f
Reg.exe add "HKLM\SYSTEM\ControlSet001\Services\AxInstSV" /v "Start" /t REG_DWORD /d "3" /f
Reg.exe add "HKLM\SYSTEM\ControlSet001\Services\WinRM" /v "Start" /t REG_DWORD /d "4" /f
Reg.exe add "HKLM\SYSTEM\ControlSet001\Services\WinHttpAutoProxySvc" /v "Start" /t REG_DWORD /d "4" /f
Reg.exe add "HKLM\SYSTEM\ControlSet001\Services\TrkWks" /v "Start" /t REG_DWORD /d "3" /f
Reg.exe add "HKLM\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\services\rdbss" /v "Start" /t REG_DWORD /d "3" /f
Reg.exe add "HKLM\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\services\pcmcia" /v "Start" /t REG_DWORD /d "3" /f
Reg.exe add "HKLM\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\services\luafv" /v "Start" /t REG_DWORD /d "4" /f
Reg.exe add "HKLM\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\services\lltdio" /v "Start" /t REG_DWORD /d "3" /f
Reg.exe add "HKLM\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\services\hwpolicy" /v "Start" /t REG_DWORD /d "3" /f
Reg.exe add "HKLM\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\services\vdrvroot" /v "Start" /t REG_DWORD /d "3" /f
Reg.exe add "HKLM\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\Services\tcpipreg" /v "Start" /t REG_DWORD /d "3" /f
Reg.exe add "HKLM\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\services\TrustedInstaller" /v "Start" /t REG_DWORD /d "3" /f
Reg.exe add "HKLM\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\services\srvnet" /v "Start" /t REG_DWORD /d "3" /f
Reg.exe add "HKLM\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\services\rspndr" /v "Start" /t REG_DWORD /d "3" /f
Reg.exe add "HKLM\System\CurrentControlSet\Services\WerSvc" /v "Start" /t REG_DWORD /d "3" /f
Reg.exe add "HKLM\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\Services\wscsvc" /v "Start" /t REG_DWORD /d "4" /f
Reg.exe add "HKLM\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\Services\Schedule" /v "Start" /t REG_DWORD /d "2" /f
Reg.exe add "HKLM\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\Services\DEFRAGSVC" /v "Start" /t REG_DWORD /d "3" /f
Reg.exe add "HKLM\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\Services\upnphost" /v "Start" /t REG_DWORD /d "4" /f
Reg.exe add "HKLM\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\Services\SSDPSRV" /v "Start" /t REG_DWORD /d "3" /f
Reg.exe add "HKLM\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\Services\MessagingService_1c6e8" /v "Start" /t REG_DWORD /d "4" /f
Reg.exe add "HKLM\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\Services\MessagingService" /v "Start" /t REG_DWORD /d "4" /f
Reg.exe add "HKLM\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\Services\stisvc" /v "Start" /t REG_DWORD /d "2" /f
REG ADD "HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\services\MapsBroker" /v Start /t REG_DWORD /d 00000004 /f
REG ADD "HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\services\iphlpsvc" /v Start /t REG_DWORD /d 00000004 /f
REG ADD "HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\services\ALG" /v Start /t REG_DWORD /d 00000004 /f
REG ADD "HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\services\AppMgmt" /v Start /t REG_DWORD /d 00000004 /f
REG ADD "HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\services\PeerDistSvc" /v Start /t REG_DWORD /d 00000004 /f
REG ADD "HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\services\CertPropSvc" /v Start /t REG_DWORD /d 00000004 /f
REG ADD "HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\services\irmon" /v Start /t REG_DWORD /d 00000004 /f
REG ADD "HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\services\MSiSCSI" /v Start /t REG_DWORD /d 00000004 /f
REG ADD "HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\services\NaturalAuthentication" /v Start /t REG_DWORD /d 00000004 /f
REG ADD "HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\services\Netlogon" /v Start /t REG_DWORD /d 00000004 /f
REG ADD "HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\services\RpcLocator" /v Start /t REG_DWORD /d 00000004 /f
REG ADD "HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\services\RetailDemo" /v Start /t REG_DWORD /d 00000004 /f
REG ADD "HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\services\SCPolicySvc" /v Start /t REG_DWORD /d 00000004 /f
REG ADD "HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\services\SNMPTRAP" /v Start /t REG_DWORD /d 00000004 /f
REG ADD "HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\services\wcncsvc" /v Start /t REG_DWORD /d 00000004 /f
REG ADD "HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\services\wisvc" /v Start /t REG_DWORD /d 00000004 /f
REG ADD "HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\services\WinRM" /v Start /t REG_DWORD /d 00000004 /f
REG ADD "HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\services\WwanSvc" /v Start /t REG_DWORD /d 00000004 /f
REG ADD "HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\services\xbgm" /v Start /t REG_DWORD /d 00000004 /f
REG ADD "HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\services\XblAuthManager" /v Start /t REG_DWORD /d 00000004 /f
REG ADD "HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\services\XboxNetApiSvc" /v Start /t REG_DWORD /d 00000004 /f
REG ADD "HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\services\XblGameSave" /v Start /t REG_DWORD /d 00000004 /f
REG ADD "HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\services\SessionEnv" /v Start /t REG_DWORD /d 00000004 /f
REG ADD "HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\services\TermService" /v Start /t REG_DWORD /d 00000004 /f
REG ADD "HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\services\UmRdpService" /v Start /t REG_DWORD /d 00000004 /f
REG ADD "HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\services\AJRouter" /v Start /t REG_DWORD /d 00000004 /f
REG ADD "HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\services\BthHFSrv" /v Start /t REG_DWORD /d 00000004 /f
REG ADD "HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\services\bthserv" /v Start /t REG_DWORD /d 00000004 /f
REG ADD "HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\services\dmwappushsvc" /v Start /t REG_DWORD /d 00000004 /f
REG ADD "HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\services\HvHost" /v Start /t REG_DWORD /d 00000004 /f
REG ADD "HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\services\vmickvpexchange" /v Start /t REG_DWORD /d 00000004 /f
REG ADD "HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\services\vmicguestinterface" /v Start /t REG_DWORD /d 00000004 /f
REG ADD "HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\services\vmicshutdown" /v Start /t REG_DWORD /d 00000004 /f
REG ADD "HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\services\vmicheartbeat" /v Start /t REG_DWORD /d 00000004 /f
REG ADD "HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\services\vmicvmsession" /v Start /t REG_DWORD /d 00000004 /f
REG ADD "HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\services\vmicrdv" /v Start /t REG_DWORD /d 00000004 /f
REG ADD "HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\services\SharedAccess" /v Start /t REG_DWORD /d 00000004 /f
REG ADD "HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\services\IpxlatCfgSvc" /v Start /t REG_DWORD /d 00000004 /f
REG ADD "HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\services\SmsRouter" /v Start /t REG_DWORD /d 00000004 /f
REG ADD "HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\services\CscService" /v Start /t REG_DWORD /d 00000004 /f
REG ADD "HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\services\SEMgrSvc" /v Start /t REG_DWORD /d 00000004 /f
REG ADD "HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\services\PhoneSvc" /v Start /t REG_DWORD /d 00000004 /f
REG ADD "HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\services\SensorDataService" /v Start /t REG_DWORD /d 00000004 /f
REG ADD "HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\services\SensrSvc" /v Start /t REG_DWORD /d 00000004 /f
REG ADD "HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\services\SensorService" /v Start /t REG_DWORD /d 00000004 /f
REG ADD "HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\services\ScDeviceEnum" /v Start /t REG_DWORD /d 00000004 /f
REG ADD "HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\services\TabletInputService" /v Start /t REG_DWORD /d 00000004 /f
REG ADD "HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\services\WebClient" /v Start /t REG_DWORD /d 00000004 /f
REG ADD "HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\services\WFDSConSvc" /v Start /t REG_DWORD /d 00000004 /f
REG ADD "HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\services\FrameServer" /v Start /t REG_DWORD /d 00000004 /f
REG ADD "HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\services\icssvc" /v Start /t REG_DWORD /d 00000004 /f
REG ADD "HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\services\lfsvc" /v Start /t REG_DWORD /d 00000004 /f
REG ADD "HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\services\NcdAutoSetup" /v Start /t REG_DWORD /d 00000004 /f
REG ADD "HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\services\NfsClnt" /v Start /t REG_DWORD /d 00000004 /f
REG ADD "HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\services\WMPNetworkSvc" /v Start /t REG_DWORD /d 00000004 /f
REG ADD "HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\services\WlanSvc" /v Start /t REG_DWORD /d 00000004 /f
REG ADD "HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\services\lmhosts" /v Start /t REG_DWORD /d 00000004 /f
REG ADD "HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\services\CscService" /v Start /t REG_DWORD /d 00000004 /f
REG ADD "HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\services\CertPropSvc" /v Start /t REG_DWORD /d 00000004 /f
REG ADD "HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\services\msahci" /v Start /t REG_DWORD /d 00000004 /f
REG ADD "HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\services\p2pimsvc" /v Start /t REG_DWORD /d 00000004 /f
REG ADD "HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\services\PcaSvc" /v Start /t REG_DWORD /d 00000004 /f
REG ADD "HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\services\PNRPsvc" /v Start /t REG_DWORD /d 00000004 /f
REG ADD "HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\services\RemoteRegistry" /v Start /t REG_DWORD /d 00000004 /f
REG ADD "HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\services\HomeGroupListener" /v Start /t REG_DWORD /d 00000004 /f
REG ADD "HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\services\HomeGroupProvider" /v Start /t REG_DWORD /d 00000004 /f
REG ADD "HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\services\SENS" /v Start /t REG_DWORD /d 00000004 /f
REG ADD "HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\services\SysMain" /v Start /t REG_DWORD /d 00000004 /f
REG ADD "HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\Services\TimeBrokerSvc" /v Start /t REG_DWORD /d 00000003 /f
REG ADD "HKLM\SOFTWARE\Policies\Microsoft\WindowsStore" /v "RemoveWindowsStore" /t REG_DWORD /d "1" /f

Retstart PC after that !


*Hit-Reg Optimizations:
The biggest impact on hit-reg is your internet connection.
"Let’s start with the main cause of lag. When you are put on a server far away, you will experience more lag. It’s just like real life – the further you have to travel the longer it takes. Games are no different. What’s worse, other players in the game who are located nearer the server will have an advantage over you as their experience will be much more responsive."

This is something i try to explain to many players who live in Germany and West Europe, where the Data Centers are located and they live few 100 km away from the Servers (or less). Some think they have Hit-Reg issues but with their 1-20 ping connection they don't know what is a real Hit-Registration problem, many think it's enough just to be a good player with good aim but that's because they don't know better & don't have enough experience and knowledge how networking works.

They don't believe the distance affects the connection performance (and that's only one of the problems along with the connection routes and the quality of the physical wires & performance of the routers along the way, the location and number of the HOPs, as well as whether the route itself is optimal or not). The internet signal is not traveling in straight line guys. Fiber is best but it's not the "Holy Grail" and doesn't mean that you have optic cables all the way to the server. Maybe for players in Germany & neighbouring countries (Most/best EU servers are located there) but not for players who live on the other side of the continent. I hope that clears up this topic.

This is probably the #1 reason why people say the hit-reg sucks. Especially when play vs low ping players (provided both players are good). 

Lag Compensation: The online gaming consists of gaming server and client. The client is your PC system. With this technique, the game is trying to compensate the player movement delay. So what happens is the gaming server (your real location is on the server) is trying to synchronize with the client. The enemy you see is his client, not his real location, which is on the server. This is happening in all online games. Watch the video below.


Overclock your CPU and GPU. The things that benefit the hit-reg the most are CPU & RAM speed + timings, CPU cache (uncore), vRAM. Also if you dont use wi-fi skip the router and put the cable directly to the PC. Trust me, if you dont have a router its better hit-reg. With no router, your ping is more stable and not spiking up & down as much. Every router adds a delay on top of your ping, good ones just add smaller delay but it's there. Also if you have poor connection using certain VPN (not just anyone) can lower your ping in some circumstances & improve your internet connection. But that's a custom case & it's highly dependable on your location, your ISP, VPN & the game you play.

Gaming Tweak For Winows 7 & 8-8.1 (AFD_Parameters & CTCP Tweak):!t1gDCCiS!Zh01DM3x8Px8TkYIFnmBJhRpKRrpvrD5LUgZeN_O2jY

Intel Recommendations:
Cat5 vs Cat6 Cables
Here's a quick Google. I get why ppl think its faster-because they tell you that its faster :D
but here faster means that Cat6 can handle faster speeds if your ISP provides you with faster speeds. So if you paid for 1gb or 10gb connection you need Cat6 for sure. If you have LAN connection you don't need more than Cat5E. I hope that clears things up. Next time when someone tells you that you have to upgrade your 100mbps connection with Cat6 just laugh at them.

*TCP Optimizer:

Remark: For v1709 and above use TCP Optimizer v4.7 & above. Microsoft revisited the networking in this version & its using different commands now for some settings. You can use TCP Optimizer v4.6 on earlier Windows versions.

On the slider above (Connection Speed) choose your theoretical internet connection speed not what the speed test shows-for ex. 5/10/25/50/75/100/1000 mbps. If you dont know what it is-Basically round the numbers of your speed test.

If you have a poor internet connection you can disable TCP Windows Auto-Tuning. You can leave it enabled if you have a good connection. If you have lower download speeds set it back to normal. Heuristics can cause issues with auto-tuning & can improve Internet speeds when disabled. It's disabled by default in Windows 8.1 Copy the screenshots settings. The MTU is different for different connections so test it first.

Disabling Nagles Algorithm- there is no point of doing this tweak. Maybe if you play older games or one which uses TCP protocol instead of UDP, the majority of modern games use mostly UDP because it's faster, which makes it ideal for FPS Shooters. I think it doesn't hurt if you disable it. Leatrix latency fix does the same - disables the Nagles Algorithm. No need to use it if you have TCP Optimizer. 
I will leave the commands TCP Optimizer is using along with few others. This is one of the few good tools which are updated adequately. Cheers to Philip from :) Turned out he's from Bulgaria too.

If you use older Windows 7 Enable DCA. It shows on Win 7 version.

After that restart your PC, go back in Windows and do the next steps.

*Right click on Network Internet Access & Open Network and Sharing Center

Go on Properties then Advanced

The idea is to disable everything you don't need & use to free processing power and reduce the workload so the packets to travel as efficient and fast as possible. 

  Uncheck File and Printer Sharing for Microsoft Networks
  & if no one else but you is using your internet connection - Disable QoS Packet Scheduler too. But if someone else is using the connection then leave it Checked. In that case, you can consider using cfosspeed or similar program to give priority to the game.

  Uncheck Internet Protocol Version 6 (TCP/IPv6). If you are a Home user you don't need IPv6 except if your connection uses IPv6-but that's rare, you can check it on Ethernet Status window after you go on Ethernet.

After that hit OK. Then go back here and click CONFIGURE

Go on Advanced

Your driver may look different but the settings are the same with small exceptions

Disable Adaptive Inter-Frame Spacing
Disable Flow Control
Disable Interrupt Moderation
Set Interrupt Moderation Rate to OFF :
(no need if you disable Interrupt Moderation but I still do it)
Set Enable PME to Disabled
Disable Packet Priority & VLAN
Disable Jumbo Packet
 Set Receive Side Scaling (RSS) - ENABLED
RSS Balancing Mode-NUMAScaling Or ConservativeScaling
Disable all “Offload” features:
(IPv4 Checksum Offload, TCP & UDP Checksum Offload, Large Send Offload, NS & ARP Offload). The Only Scenario You can leave the Offload is if you have a slow CPU or want to use RSS, then you have to enable IPv4 Checksum. Or maybe on some laptops, IDK.

The server versions of the driver support more than 2 queues, its the same base driver for consumers, which means they should be still there, you just need to "unlock" them. You have to enable Receive Side Scaling and Checksum Offload if you want to use the RSS Queues (although, for Checksum, I haven't seen this in Intel documents, only in old Microsoft Server ones, it's possible that be the case only if you want to use the NIC or in old versions and CPU can calculate this on it own, but not sure)The number of the allocated RSS Queues depends on the CPU core count. Keep that in mind. Enable only IPv4 Checksum Offload if you want to use RSS for gaming or disable RSS completely. Don't enable all Checksum settings if you have a fast CPU. Also, keep in mind that it also has some very minor delay but in many games that don't matter. Increasing the queues improves the throughput for different kind of workload environments, including gaming. Since v1803 Microsoft introduced RSSv2 which is faster & more responsive (technically in v1709 but its preview only). 

 If you have old or slow CPU you can consider disabling RSS. Otherwise set the number of RSS Queues to the highest value (2 or 4 Queues). There is a way for Intel NICs to increase the number of Queues from the registry.

Two options here: Set Receive & Transmit buffers to the lowest you can set OR the highest - Test it. I find 64-96 is good for me but you can have packet loss if it's too low. Intel recommends these 2 options to be increased to max. Enable DCA for Windows 7.

Disable all power saving settings (Green, Eco, Power Saving etc)

Leave Gigabit Master Slave Mode as it is - Auto Detect

 Don't touch Speed & Duplex, leave it on Auto Negotiation 
They can disable your internet on Intel NICs.

 To fix it you'll have to go back in System Restore Point or reinstall your internet drivers.

*Here are commands for Windows 7, 8 & 10. The commands for Win 7 & 8 won't harm Win10, they just won't work. Most Home connections don't use it but you make sure your connection doesn't use IPv6. If you do - don't use the first two commands. I recommend running the commands after you make the tweaks in TCP Optimizer & Network Card. They complement each other. Make System Restore Point before and after every change you make.

Hit-Reg Fix:

netsh interface teredo set state disabled
netsh interface 6to4 set state disabled
netsh winsock reset
netsh int isatap set state disable
netsh int ip set global taskoffload=disabled
netsh int ip set global neighborcachelimit=4096
netsh int tcp set global timestamps=disabled
netsh int tcp set heuristics disabled
netsh int tcp set global autotuninglevel=disable
netsh int tcp set global congestionprovider=ctcp
netsh int tcp set supplemental Internet congestionprovider=CTCP
netsh int tcp set global chimney=disabled
netsh int tcp set global ecncapability=disabled
netsh int tcp set global rss=enabled
netsh int tcp set global rsc=disabled
netsh int tcp set global dca=enabled
netsh int tcp set global netdma=enabled
netsh int tcp set global nonsackrttresiliency=disabled
netsh int tcp set security mpp=disabled
netsh int tcp set security profiles=disabled
PowerShell Disable-NetAdapterChecksumOffload -Name "*"
PowerShell Disable-NetAdapterLso -Name "*"
PowerShell Disable-NetAdapterRsc -Name "*"
PowerShell Disable-NetAdapterIPsecOffload -Name "*"
PowerShell Disable-NetAdapterPowerManagement -Name "*"
PowerShell Disable-NetAdapterQos -Name "*"

Reg.exe add "HKLM\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\Services\Tcpip\Parameters" /v "EnableICMPRedirect" /t REG_DWORD /d "1" /f

Reg.exe add "HKLM\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\Services\Tcpip\Parameters" /v "EnablePMTUDiscovery" /t REG_DWORD /d "1" /f

Reg.exe add "HKLM\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\Services\Tcpip\Parameters" /v "Tcp1323Opts" /t REG_DWORD /d "0" /f

Reg.exe add "HKLM\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\Services\Tcpip\Parameters" /v "TcpMaxDupAcks" /t REG_DWORD /d "2" /f

Reg.exe add "HKLM\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\Services\Tcpip\Parameters" /v "TcpTimedWaitDelay" /t REG_DWORD /d "32" /f

Reg.exe add "HKLM\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\Services\Tcpip\Parameters" /v "GlobalMaxTcpWindowSize" /t REG_DWORD /d "8760" /f

Reg.exe add "HKLM\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\Services\Tcpip\Parameters" /v "TcpWindowSize" /t REG_DWORD /d "8760" /f

Reg.exe add "HKLM\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\Services\Tcpip\Parameters" /v "MaxConnectionsPerServer" /t REG_DWORD /d "0" /f

Reg.exe add "HKLM\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\Services\Tcpip\Parameters" /v "MaxUserPort" /t REG_DWORD /d "65534" /f

Reg.exe add "HKLM\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\Services\Tcpip\Parameters" /v "SackOpts" /t REG_DWORD /d "0" /f

Reg.exe add "HKLM\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\Services\Tcpip\Parameters" /v "DefaultTTL" /t REG_DWORD /d "64" /f

Works on Win7 & Win8 too. That's why I left some unused by Win10 commands

Restart PC

*RSS Queues + Transmit & Receive Buffers
(This tweak is mine. I found it. If you see it anywhere else they took it from my blog. This is the only way that works on Windows 10. I think it's only fair to give me credit when you post it somewhere.)

At the time I'm writing that this is the only way to increase the RSS Queues to more than the allowed number in Windows 10 & you can find the following tweaks only in my blog. You can even tweak the whole network card's driver from there. There are articles for older Windows versions about RSS and Tx/Rx which don't work on Windows 10. 
Maybe I should mention that I found these tweaks on my own. So if you mention this tweak elsewhere please give me a credit. It's not a big deal if you don't :)

Like we know Intel NICs have only 2 Queues. For this to be working you need RSS to be enabled to use the Queues. Your driver settings may look a bit different but most of the options are the same. 

The registry path for this (Advanced tab Settings):

Is this:

and this:

I can confirm this works for Intel NIC's, I'm not sure for Realtek or Killer NIC. But you can find the Class Guid for your Network Adapter from Driver Key in the drivers. You can use Find... in the  Registry Editor menu.

You can change all network settings from here along with RSS Queues. The following steps should work on every Windows 10 version and Network Driver:

This is the default Intel settings:

We just need to add 2 more queues. Right click on the empty background and choose String Value, name it "3" and on Value Data type "3 Queues". Repeat the process for the 4th queue but name it "4" and type "4 Queues". You can even add more if you have 6 or 8 core CPU. I encourage you to test it.

3 Queues

4 Queues

Now here's one more tweak affecting Hit-Registration & Responsiveness in Games. This improves the performance of server installations and any kind of workload environment as well. Also great for 1 and 10GB internet connections.
You also can set the minimum and maximum values for Transmit & Receive Buffers (default values as well but you don't really need to change them, RSS Queues as well).

This is the registry path:



For good connections, I recommend high values and for slower connections low values but you will have to test which is the best value for you. 
I was going to show my NIC settings but I assume they will work only for Intel NICs.


*Nvidia Control Pannel Game Settings - Performance

On Manage 3D settings go on Program Settings and choose every game separately because on Global Settings some program can "misbehave" & you could have issues with Internet Browser for example as it affects all programs. Also on PhysX choose GPU. Shader Cache ON - it's better and faster even with slower HD but sometimes you can have issues with "ON". Turn Off - Only if you have a very slow hard drive or stutters. Keep in mind "Off" causes CPU to work more, "ON" uses the hard drive. Max Pre-rendered frames on 1 or Use 3D Application Settings


If you use G-Sync set it to Fast in Vertical Sync Option. Fast Sync have an additional buffer which reduces the Input Lag but you have to cap the FPS by 2-3 below the refresh rate of your monitor in order G-Sync to work, otherwise, you will have way higher input lag. Of course when not using any sync is faster than G-sync (or FastSync). 

Watch these videos showing how FPS influence the gameplay and how V & G-Sync technologies work along with some testing results. It's very educational. 

The Telemetry, Maintenance, Defender, Update and other Windows background services and processes can increase the frametimes and hurt the performance in general, even lower the FPS. On 60fps the frametimes are 16.7ms, on 144fps-6.95ms, 240fps-4.17ms, on 500fps -2ms. Thats why you need your FPS as high as possible even on 60hz monitor. The game is more responsive and registers your mouse click & movements faster (lower input lag). This complements perfectly with a good connection & high refresh rate monitor and makes what we call a good Hit-Reg. Sometimes if you have a very good connection you don't need high FPS but that's the case in general & this player will have even better Hit-Reg with higher FPS. Also something i haven't seen anywhere or anyone say is on a lower resolution the pixel clock is higher. That's why on some FPS shooters you perform better when lower the resolution.

Digital Foundry


Hardware Unboxed

If you use programs when gaming you can use Display GPU Activity Icon in Notification Area to see which programs use the GPU & potentially disable them. Enable it from Nvidia Control Panel >Desktop.

Same principle for AMD cards.
Last time I used AMD they were faster than the competition so Im not on 100% about these settings. I just use common sense. That's why I don't mention AMD often here. My experience is more with Intel & Nvidia.
Anti-Aliasing - Use Application Settings, Anisotropic Settings -  TurnOff, Texture Filtering Quality - Performance, Vertical Refresh is ALWAYS OFF, Tessalation - Override Application Settings & then choose OFF when the new option appears. For Scaling Mode - use No Scaling if you play on s native resolution for your monitor. If you play on lower resolution use Aspect Ratio.
Use .cfg file because in Battlefield for ex. there are commands which complement & improve the AMD Radeon & Nvidia Control Panel settings but they are not included as options.



GPU overclock is a childs play these days plus you have Nvida's GPU Boost 3.0 & 4.0. 

Run some benchmark in the background and adjust the settings on the fly. First Increase the Power Limit to the MAX & if you want the highest OC the voltage should be on MAX as well. 

After every change hit Apply. Then start increasing the memory clock with 50 - 100mhz at a time. Try first with +300. You can have more improvement from vRAM than Core speed.

 Each time you raise the clock watch for artifacts, screen flickering & other anomalies. Back down 10-15mhz if you see something unusual on the screen (decrease until you have a good picture). 

When you reached the highest stable memory speed make the same with the Core Clock. When you set your final OC, benchmark for a longer period to be sure it's stable. 

Always set custom Fan Curves- on Pascal cards the core speeds depends heavily on temps so you need your card as cool as possible to get the highest core speed. 

Use 2 separate cables to power the 6-pin &/or 8-pin connectors of the Video card (if it has 2 connectors). You also can cool your video card with a fan on top of the card. Place it on top of the GPU or the RAM modules or both. Of course on backplates with no vent wholes won't work. It gives me around 10C cooler GPU temps. Both methods can stabilize your overclock or give you a few more mhz. The fan(s) needs to be elevated so put rubber feet on 4 corners to minimize the noise or use zip ties. 

Good demonstrative video about the airflow & PC cooling

And if you can put fan on the side panel place it to draw the hot air out of the case. It helps a lot on hotter cards in negative pressure cases. You can try the fan to blow in too. What fan orientation to be, depends on what fan configuration your case have (positive or negative). Watch the youtube video above. Thank me later :)

Ghetto Cool Tech:


K-Boost removes the GPU Boost and your card will work at the highest Core Speed without lowering the clock. That's better performance. It forces your card to work on 100%. That's one of the few ways to max out your video card without a bios flash. Set your usual OC and enable it. If your core clock is dipping down that means your GPU can't sustain that speed on this load. When you find your card "sweetspot" it will be the same speed all the time and it will be higher than normal (without K-Boost). In any case you will have the best GPU response time. Don't forget to OC the vRAM & tweak the Power Management Mode in Nvidia Control Panel to Prefer Maximum Performance. Especially if you have flashed bios (for stability).

 It will increase your low FPS, maybe average too. Increases the performance in-game & can reduce the frame drops if you have ones. Some people think they have frame drops when playing on LOW Settings. It's normal to have big FPS fluctuations on LOW, that's not frame drop guys.

Use K-Boost only when gaming or other heavy tasks. After you stop the game, disable K-Boost otherwise your Video Card will work at highest voltage all the time and could overheat if not supervised. 

If you leave it enabled that might degrade your Video Card's life. If you don't disable K-Boost it will be still enabled after PC restart. Keep that in mind & dont forget it enabled more than a day. Of course if you know what you are doing and have good cooling + don't mind the card is using maximum power & stays on 100% all the time you can leave it on. Just know GPU temps can be 50-60C but vram & vrm can go above 115C. Especially if you have water cooled card but no fan over the other components or laptop like DELL Inspiron for ex. They were notorious with their high temps.

K-Boost is EVGA feature in PrecisionX OC software. But you can enable it with MSI Afterburner as well. It works only on Nvidia cards and it's locked only for EVGA ones after PrecisionX 16 v5.

There is a hidden shortcut that can bypass the K-Boost limitations & can be used on all Nvidia cards so no real need to enable it in Afterburner. Shift + Ctrl + Middle mouse button brings up the Advanced Settings menu & from there you can disable K-Boost limitations but you might have blue screens because of that.

Honestly, I prefer to use G-Booster because it's much simpler & easier way than all 3 variants & have Game Mode + other gaming focused tweaks to 

The other, safer & easier way to enable K-Boost with no limitations or blue screens is G-Booster. Works for All Nvidia cards 600 series & above. Along with it there are several other powerful gaming features along with Windows Optimizations tweaks which actually works & will improve your Performance & Hit-Reg in game. They are optimized for Windows 10 but are adapted for Windows 7 & 8 as well. Doesn't use system resources at all. Here's a link to the page for more info:


 I just show you the tools & how to use them. You decide which one you like more.


offical link:

K-Boost in Afterburner:

official link for Afterburner:!glIiBQAb!ZD20RNVjcHiYpQ5I6SfXICDkVkFuHi4j9ReHeQHdhYQ

You just have to change the skins:

1. Place defaultX.uxf in C:\Program Files (x86)\MSI Afterburner\Skins
2. Open Msi Afterburner and change skin to "Default EVGA Precision X 16 skin"
3. Enable K-Boost

 Nvidia Inspector: 

Nvidia Inspector potentially can fix SLI issues and stuttering & improve performance. There are pre-defined optimized settings for basically every popular modern game from the last years. Its like Nvidia Control Panel on steroids (with more options). And you can overclock your card with it.

To fix SLI issues install latest drivers, run Nvidia Inspector, Click on "Create New Profile", click on "add an application to current profile" and choose the game you play.  Go on compatibility in Nvidia Inspector settings and try the SLI compatibility bits options & other compatibility options. For BF4 the SLI compatibility bits (dx10-dx11) is: 0x080116F5 (Act of Aggression, Battlefield 3, Battlefield 1, etc.). Click on Apply changes and restart the PC. Typically you need to use cards with the same base & boost clocks, ideally with same BIOSes to avoid stuttering. You can try to mitigate stutters in MSI Afterburner by applying identical settings to both cards.

Another thing you can do to improve performance is to set the Texture Filtering LOD bias to (+) positive value. (-) Negative value sharpens the picture but might looks weird when moving. It should be also on Allow.
Always restart PC before using another program and make System Restore Point.

RadeonMod v1.0.14:

Old name was "AMD Registry Editor". You can edit the registry for AMD GPU's. Make a backup of your registry first and/or make a System Restore Point.
For Radeon R9 Fury, R9 300, and R7 300 Series, Radeon R9 200, R7 200, HD 7000, HD 6000, and HD 5000 Series, AMD Mobility Radeon Notebooks, Radeon HD 4000, HD 3000, and HD 2000 Series, AMD Radeon Dual Graphics.

(Bios Editor for Radeon 400 & 500 series AMD GPUs):


highest safe 24/7 CPU voltage is around 1.390-1.425
(For all Intel chips. Doesn't matter if it's SandyBridge or CoffeLake)

Most people just change the multiplayer & the voltage and call that OC. Some even leave voltage on Auto and can't understand why they have so high temps. I've had higher scores vs CPUs with 100mhz higher OC than mine. (Thats because Youtube is full with "OC guides" which changes only these two settings. Not to mention "60fps is good enough" crap.

Explaination of 1% & 0.1% Low FPS

People pay extra for something they don't use & waste money on higher end CPUs & GPUs while they would be fine with less expensive ones. Same thing with power supplies-buy 600-1200w and don't even go in the bios. 500w is more than adequate if you don't OC guys.

Be careful, even with low temps the higher voltage can damage your CPU.
With that said don't be a pussy & use the performance you overpaid for :)

Highest CPU temp Im comfortable with is around 75C-85C but you can run at 95C and still be fine as long as its not happening every day. Same thing with voltage. Of course the lower the better. Intel CPU can operate without throttling up to 105C & 115C for the 9000 series. It doesn't matter if you have Ivy Bridge or CoffeeLake- if you don't go over 1,35-1,4v you are safe. 

I use AsRock motherboards so I will use their terminology. The settings exist in other Motherboard brands but some of them have different names so keep that in mind.

First OC the CPU, then RAM because RAM OC can decrease the CPU OC. If you think you are experienced enough and know your PC you can OC them both simultaneously but thats for more advanced users.

 Before you set the multiplayer and find your best voltage for certain CPU speed you have to disable all power-saving features like C-states, CPU Enhanced Halt, Thermal Throttling, Intel Virtualization Technolgy as well. Set BCLK on 100 manually after setting XMP profile, to avoid possible changes, for simplicity. On high core count CPUs you can even disable the Hyperthreading in some games & benchmarks. Ryzen CPUs perform better without SMT in many games for example (SMT is AMD's Hyperthreading).

CPU cache (uncore) uses more voltage but it's good for the hit-reg so after you find the best CPU multiplayer set it the highest you can, just increase the CPU voltage to balance it if you have (temp) room for that. It also makes CPUs hotter. Don't bother to change the minimum CPU cache ratio, just maximum.
Voltage depends on the LLC (Load Line Calibration-check the link below to know more). The highest LLC more stable the OC but your motherboard will have higher temps. "z" & "x" motherboards (z170, z370, x99, x299 ect) are designed for overclocking. There are 2 LLC setting approaches depending on motherboard vendors. For ex. in ASUS bios the highest LLC is the highest number, in AsRock the highest is the lowest number. Leave PLL to default or lowest value. Higher values help for stability but that is in extreme cooling like ln2.

Set Long Duration Power Limit and Short Duration Power Limit + CPU Core Current Limit on the highest you can set it (just type 999999 and hit enter it will set it automatically to the highest value, works on most motherboards). For some BIOSes if it's in % you can set it to 130%.

Long Duration Maintained set to around 40 for above 5ghz and below 40 for slower OC. 1 or 2 is a good option too. Or Auto if you are not sure. The CPU voltage should be set to offset or adaptive not manual or Auto. So after you find your best CPU OC change CPU voltage from manual to offset, manual stay at high voltages all the time-its good only for testing (to find your best OC) or very high OC for stability. 

After you find the best OC and want to squeeze little more of your system you can try to increase the BCLK. This will change your RAM speeds (along with other settings) so watch them and adjust to make it back to normal speeds (2933mhz;3200mhz;3366mhz for ex.). BCLK overclocking needs slightly less voltage than multiplayer OC. For ex. I cant sustain 5.3ghz OC with multiplyer only. But with BCLK OC I can hit 5.3ghz stable.

The FCLK helps with data transfer between CPU and GPU. Im pretty sure it affects the memory controller because RAM is the medium between CPU & GPU, and sometimes you have to increase the RAM voltage to post. Set it on the highest (1000mhz).  If you still have issues with your RAM OC & can't post - increase RAM voltage. Set on 800mhz as a last resort. You have to check FCLK option frequently when changing the RAM settings because it goes to default when tweak RAM timings-it's a failsafe. I set FCLK last. It has a small increase in Benchmarks but it helps for the responsiveness & hit-reg. It boosts GPU performance.

Set the Fan speed to Highest Auto you have in Bios or make a custom curve. Better louder & cooler than hot & slow. People who want quiet fans will set it differently anyway.


When you set CPU voltage for 24/7 go for adaptive or offset and set it to +100 or more (or less depending on you OC) above your CPU VID to adjust the voltage. For example, If your CPU VID is 1,150v, + 100 offset means the CPU voltage will be around 1,250v in Windows. +150 means around 1,300v. If your lowest manual stable voltage is 1,275v for 5Ghz just set offset to +125 to make it 1,275v, thats it. These are just examples. My offset on 5ghz is +160 ofset with 1,125mv CPU VID.   You can check your  CPU VID with HWiNFO.

In Windows High Performance Power Option will make your CPU to work on the highest frequency and voltage. Thats how you can see the max CPU voltage with CPU-Z. Balanced will make your CPU to scale down when not in use (lowest frequency & voltage) and increase frequency & voltage on the go, when use it. It will constantly adjust frequency & voltage based on the CPU load. Power Save will try to use as low voltage & CPU frequency as it can. I guess thats the best I can explain this. 

When OC run HWiNFO app. Very useful tool, it shows everything related to your system-temps, voltage, RAM & pagefile usage, errors, CPU, GPU, Motherboard, name it. Look for Windows Hardware Errors (WHEA). Its located at the bottom of the Sensor Status Window. If you see CPU Cache L0 Errors your OC most likely is not stable, try to increase eighter CPUcache voltage or CPU voltage with 0,005mv. If you still have same error increase again with 0,005mv until you have no more errors.

Video Overclocking Guide
If you're not experienced, copy the settings in the video. Its mostly the same settings for all bioses. Only the names are different. Doesn't matter if it's not your motherboard.

8700k & 8600k

Other OC Guides:

Kaby Lake/Skylake Overclocking

These are My Recommendations for AsRock Boards. I have AsRock Extreme 4 but it works on the others as well:

How to flash Motherboard bios:

Introduction in Bios
Intel released a microcode patch for Meltdown and Spectre Vulnerabilities that reduces the CPU performance by 7-10% in last 2-3 months of 2016*. Board vendors start updating the Bios versions from the beginning of the 2017. So use older Bios version (before 01.2017) if you flash your Bios and avoid revision C2 & 84 for Sky and KabyLake like a plaque. Nobody will hack your gaming PC. These patches are mainly for companies. If you are using your PC just for gaming you dont need it, you will lose performance. New microcodes also can increase your CPU temps as well. Except that there are patches on Windows side. Use InSpectre to check if you have Windows patches & disable them & submit your score to CPU-Z & when you see your score on their site it will show you if you have Intel microcode patch for Spectre & Meltdown in your bios or not.  If you updated to the new microcode you cannot go back and flash older microcode & you are stuck with less performance.

In the example below it says that my bios does not have microcode patch so my performance won't be crippled by 7-10%. Look further down to InSpectre screenshot to see how it have to be for you. It have to show System is Meltdown protected: NO & System is Spectre protected: NO.

(Meltdown and Spectre Vulnerabilities):

This tool checks Windows for Meltdown and Spectre vulnerabilities Updates & you can disable it on Windows level. If it shows "YES" on microcode - just means there is a new BIOS for your CPU with a security patch. The Windows Patch is slowing my 7600k 5Ghz down with around 3% in Cinebench. There are 2 levels of security - software & hardware. Windows Patch & Intels Microcode Update are software security measures. Intels 9000 Series have patched this & implemented in Hardware so the performance hit won't be as bad as 8000 series & before.

This is what you want to see

The performance hit is more visible on older CPUs. If you have the protections enabled the performance of your CPU has been decreased for sure, the question is "How Much". The microcode patch makes your CPU to work around 7-10% worse on new CPUs, older CPUs like Sandy Bridge can have up to 25% performance drop, along with higher temps. You can check your scores in Cinebench before and after the bios update to verify it and see the difference. Cinebench is more consistent in scores, thats why.



You can be fine with certain settings and crash after a month or more so make sure its 100% stable with MemTest64, Memtest, SuperPI or similar tool.

I give only a link for MemTest64 because its easier to use:

Select the Dram Frequency you want. For Higher OC (3000-3200mhz +) 

Set Dram voltage at 1.35v or higher (highest safe 24/7 voltage is 1.4-1.5)

Set CPU VCCIO voltage at 1.20v, (highest safe 24/7 voltage is up to 1.25-1.27)

Set CPU System Agent voltage at 1.20v, (highest safe 24/7 voltage is up to 1.25-1.3)

They say: tRAS >= CAS +tRCD+tRTP (+/- 2) & tFAW >= 4x tRRD(_S)

If you have troubles with posting on higher speed & nothing else works increase DRAM Activating Power Supply.

You can try OC the RAM on XMP but it can cause problems with timings so I recommend to disable XMP if you aim for high OC. After you find the highest stable speed go to tRFC-set it to the lowest you can post - check the RAM JEDECs to see whats the lowest tRFC value. Thats usually around the lowest stable value or close to it. My HyperX FURY 2666mhz (OC to 3200mhz) RAM goes around 265-400 depending on the frequency and voltage.

When RAM OC keep the same (or similar) margins between the different timings. Remember, some XMP profiles increase the BCLK and that can cause issues when tweaking. For not so experienced people i suggest to set BCLK to 100 manually. Try to set the CAS Latency (tcl) tRCD & tRP as lowest as u can be stable, these are related/linked to tRAS. You can try to find online stable timings for your RAM kit for the first 4 or 5 timings and work from there. If you can set stable Command Rate to 1 do it but if you have instability go back to 2. Value of 2 is also good for stability with 2 (keep it 2 on 4 or more RAM sticks). tWR & tCWL are related/linked. For tWR values below 10 can be unstable so for stability above that number. 
Leave tWTR_L on Default/Auto and lower the tWRRD_sg by 1 or 2. If you post then lower tRDWR_sg, tRDWR_dg, tRDWR_dr, tRDWR_dd, and tWRWR_dr & tWRWR _dd  options with 1 or 2. 

You also can set tREFI double the Default value. You can try the highest value as it helps alot (especially in benchmarks) but that can cause instability if it's too high, so if you have problems go back to double the default number or default. tREFI & Command Rate are tricky settings. You can add more voltage to try to stabilize them.

I use AIDA64, MemTest64, memtest, MemTweakIt (its ASUS app but it can be used to watch DRAM Efficiency Score, increasing tREFI lowers the score for some reason), ASRock Timing Configurator & Ofcourse CPU-Z.

 Increase IO-L Offset (A&B channels) to the highest you can post (maybe 1-2 below the highest for stability). Start Increasing by +1 at each step & if you post the IO-L should be lower value. Watch RTL CH:A&B. They need to be the same values or differ by 1 or 2. Ideally, for gaming, they should be same values. RTL is connected to IOL and CAS(tCL) values.

 Sometimes one IO-L offset channel can post but the other don't so if you increase both at once and doesn't post try to increase only one of them. They also must be differ no more than 1 value (A channel:22, B: 23 for ex)

You can try to lower the IO-L Initial Value as well. For me 3 or 2 works fine on higher RAM voltage (4 is by default). You also could tweak RTL Initial Value as well but best leave it on Auto. Set ODT NOM around 80-100. You can disable the Fast Boot option (in RAM settings, not in Boot) - it can cause problems to RAM training sometimes.

You can try differend approach: Leave the primary (first 4) timings and tweak the 2nd, 3rd & 4th timings. That way you can have more stable OC with similar results.

These will give you a nice performance boost (if done right) and will improve the responsiveness & hit-reg. Windows will become snappier & programs will start faster. Especially combined with higher CPU cache. Bad RAM OC can cause very bad hit-reg. Good RAM OC on the other hand will feel like you have slightly more time to aim and shoot.

So to summer up check these timings:
CAS# (tCL) ; RAS# to CAS# (tRCDtRP) ; RAS#(tRAS) ; Commsnd Rate(CR) - usually 1 (performance) or 2 (stability) ; Refresh Cycle Time(tRFC) ; CAS Write Latency(tCWL) ; rAS to RAS Delay ; Write to Read Delay ; tREFI ; tCKE ;tRDWRs ; IO-L Init Value ; IO-L Offset; tRDWR_sg; tRDWR_dg; tRDWR_dr; tRDWR_dd and tWRWR_dr; tWRWR_dd.

Adjust RTL/IO on Maximus VIII Series 



Speaking of overclocking you can overclock you mouse. You can increase the Polling Rate of the mouse if its overclockable. Not every mouse can OC. Actually you OC the USB port not the mouse itself. You can even OC the keyboard. There are already selling mouses with 2000hz and 4000hz polling rate on the market. With higher Polling Rate you can use slightly higher dpi & helps with higher sensitivity in general. If your sensitivity is slightly too high for you but lowering ingame mouse sens &/or DPI makes it too slow for you, increasing the polling rate will help you with that (increasing FOV, Texture (Anisotropic) Filtering and Texture Resolution as well but FOV & Texture Resolution can affect the responsiveness a bit if they're too high). AA too but most players won't use AA in competitive...Anisotropic filtering uses very little system resources. 

Also use black mousepads because other colors, pictures ect can affect the mouse sensor performance. On some sensors it's very obvious and the mouse feels weird, on others not so much but can also affect them, the difference is somewhat hard to spot so keep that in mind. Mouse sensors getting better and better every year but as a rule of thumb use a black mousepad to avoid that issue (or at least use pads with just one color-green, blue ect). Or just swap the black area of the mousepad if you have a big one. This could potentially improve your aim a bit if you had that issue before and you didn't know it.

It was difficult in Windows 7 & 8 and few months after Windows 10 came out but now the drivers are digitally signed by Microsoft wich means it's easier and no more Test Mode. Unfortunately with every new major Windows Update, Microsoft ruins it. Higher polling rate uses slightly more CPU but it can increase accuracy & help with your aim. In Battlefield Texture Filtering (Anisotropic filtering) also can "stabilize" your mouse & help with your aim. 

Install the driver. Choose 1kHz, or 2kHz-4kHz, or 4kHz-8kHz & run the batch file in the driver directory. Run setup, check Mouse Only, choose your mouse, check "filter on device", install service, restart, restart computer the first time. Run setup. Repeat if necessarry. First time you OC the mouse lower polling rate to be sure it works. If it lowers the pol. rate then it works, if you can't make it run on higher pol. rate then your mouse can't be OC.

You should know that in 2-4000hz driver 31=2000, 62=4000 and in 4-8000hz driver 31=4000hz, 62=8000hz. Yes you can potentially OC your mouse to 8000hz Polling Rate.

Check it Out:

The three main grip styles

The common opinion is low dpi gives you the best aim. Higher dpi + low in-game sensitivity is more accurate but have to have steady hands (i think its better for Snipers). Most pro players use low dpi. I think the reason is because many FPS players come from CSGO & this is low sensitivity game. People just copy them & are used to play like that. Low DPI will keep your aim longer on the same spot mitigating the weapons recoil a bit and help with shaky hands.

 The in-game sensitivity handles the mouse sensitivity differendly than the dpi. In some games it's just a multyplayer to your dpi. The mix from both dpi & in-game sensitivity is the best & most common user settings. 

Old mouse sensors were not that good back in the day but these days the good mouses work best on 2000-3000dpi and low dpi can perform worse than higher. Depends on the mouse sensor. That doesn't mean you can't play on low dpi. If you use high sensitivity I encourage you to try only dpi & 0, 1 or 2 in-game. 600-800 dpi + 5- 12 or up ingame in BF4 is high sensitivity too. I've noticed some people don't know they use higher sens. In BF4 0 ingame & 1800dpi is = to around 10 ingame and 400dpi.

Povohat's Mouse Accel (Comunity Based Mouse Driver)
It introduces "good" mouse acceleration, not like the crap Windows "enhance pointer precision". The main difference is that you can set an acceleration cap (+ other settings) and you don't lose your muscle memory. So you can twitch faster when 1 on 1 with someone and turn quicker on him when hip-fire for ex. It can potentially be a big thing if you learn how to use it. A guy called Povohat extracted the Quake Live commands & KovaaK made the GUI. There's an old article about mouse acceleration in Competitive Gaming, just for reference. 

Download Driver:

Video Tutorial:

And since we talk about mouses I'll briefly mention the The MarkC Mouse Acceleration Fix. Everybody knows it, here's the link for convenience:

The MarkC Windows 10 + 8.1 + 8 + 7 Mouse Acceleration Fix:

You don't have to apply the fix every time you install new Windows. Whether you need it or not depends on your mouse sensor. Just check it with "MouseMovementRecorder" and if there are no colors your mouse dont need the fix. Just know when you go to the edges of the window you have colors anyway-that doesn't mean you have acceleration. Your cursor have to be in the center of the "MouseMovementRecorder" window.



Although its not that important for Windows 10 users for previous Windows 8 & 7 its mandatory. Windows 10 parks only 1 core (for 4 core CPUs) and the performance is the same with or without the unparking. But it doesn't hurt to do it. You can unpark the CPU from the CPU Power Settings from the Power Options if you unlock the hidden options. With the comands bellow you will unlock some hidden CPU settings and you can increase your CPU performance with them.

You can Unpark your CPU with these commands but It disables only Windows Core Parking not the Smart Parking in Sky/Kaby/CoffeLake CPUs :

powercfg -setacvalueindex scheme_current sub_processor 0cc5b647-c1df-4637-891a-dec35c318583 100

powercfg -setactive scheme_current

or you can use programs:

(You can disable the C states with the new versuion of Core Parking Manager called QuickCPU)

All the sliders on 100 & diesble the C-States


(programs use resources though)


 *Unlock Best CPU Power Settings in Power Options Menu:

Both tools have their pluses. ParkControll will tune the Power Plan better because it has more options but Quick CPU can disable the C-States. Quick CPU is the new ParkControl. Dont use old version. 
CPU Unlocker unlocks almost all CPU options (they are many). After you run the tool As Administrator it will open Power Options Menu. Click on the blue Change Plan Settings shortcut on High Performance or your custom Power Plan, then go in Change Advanced Power Settings & open Processor Power Management where you will see the new unlocked power options for your CPU to tweak.

You want to disable duty cycling & Allow Throttle States, leave Autonomous Mode enabled. Increase to 100% performance boost policy, performance core parking min cores to 100, energy performance preference policy to 0. If you want your CPU to work all the time on 100% like the old processors tweak Processor idle disable - but thats extreme, most people dont want that, I use it strictly for gaming sometimes. It uses more power so if you have unstable overclock your CPU might crash, you might have to increase the voltage slightly if that happens. Processor performance increase policy-set on Rocket. The others are intuitive.

 DO NOT DISABLE POWER THROTTLING (Im nopt talking about the one in CPU options. CPU Throttle should be disabled). People see something on internet & decide to do it because thats what it says without even thinking. They're excited about that new tweak they found out but the writer of the article doesn't play games & explains what the feature does including only his use case scenario. If Powertrottling is disabled the programs in the back won't powertrottle & will interfere with the game you play at the moment. This tweak is good for multytasking, not for gaming. Thats why I won't include this tweak here. It actually compliment Windows Game Mode which worked great in v1703 & v1708. I assume thats the case in the last versions as well. 

There are many tweaks out there but what's best tweak & value for gaming is differend thing. Also there are TWO kinds of Gaming Tweaks - for Performance & for better Picture. Remember that. Think & make your research. Only Google is not enough.

Unlock Windows Ultimate Performance Power Plan

CMD comand for v1803 and above
powercfg -duplicatescheme e9a/42b02-d5df-448d-aa00-03f14749eb61

for v1709 & before we have to import it in Windows



For BENQ Monitors from the Service Menu or Blur Busters Strobe Utility decrease the Strobe Duty and Strobe Fase to 0 or 1- lowest. This along with other monitor settings will make the monitor slightly faster & more responsive. You most likely can't feel the difference but its there and you will find you perform a little bit better in FPS shooters, if you are good enough player. Competitive gamers need every advantage they can get. Many people will say thats irrelevant because its just miliseconds - "your reactions are way slower that this", bla-bla. Thats bullshit, its not how it works & they're mistaken. Its hard to explain but basically this just shows the video signal faster and you see the enemy real location/possition little faster. That's provided that you have strong enough system to render the image as fast as the monitor can show it (Depends also on your Internet Connection, lets assume its good enough). Let me rephrase - the monitor shows faster what the GPU is already drawn. Plus everybody with experience know 1 second is long time in FPS shooters. Also Overdrive or AMA (depending on your monitor) causes a some amount of delay (not much really).  You can play with it enabled or not but just keep that in mind.

BlurBuster for Benq-it controls the Serfvice Menu:
Blur Busters Strobe Calibration Utility utilises a hidden Service Menu in some of the Benq monitors. You can tweak these settings without it but its good tool non the less. If you have high refresh monitor is a must have site & they most likely already made a review of your particular monitor. 

For Benq monitors you can enable the hidden Service Menu by holding down the 2nd button from the left and turn on the monitor. After that you can turn on/off (show/hide) the Service Menu with the 4th button from the left. Thats it. It will work on other similar models but the buttons might be different.

Brightness 100, Contrast 50, LowBlueLight-0, BlurReduction-OFF, AMA-High (it's not faster than Premium but I see enemies more accurately). InstantMode-ON ofcourse, Sharpness-5 (default) R=88, G=81, B=95. First enable AMA, then InstantMode. At least thats the case with Firmware v.2.

Of cource this can be applied to all monitors with these settings like Asus for example. 

You can also OC the refresh rate of your monitor. You can do it from Nvidia Pannel, for AMD you need this:

Desktop Window Manager (DWM)/Fullscreen Optimization

Let's talk about few things like Fullscreen Optimization, Borderless & Windowed modes, to clear these clouds that gathered the last few months. 

Fullscreen Optimisation Mode is enabled by default since build 17093. It's part of Windows Game Mode optimizations. Many people think that since alt-tabbing is slower when playing games, that means the game runs with increased input lag. Now, don't think it can't help, it can improve your gameplay but only if your game has problems like stuttering & higher input lag. Only in that case. It is not a mandatory tweak.

This misinformation is spread by some confused people and self-proclaimed Gurus on the internet who think that watching porn & listening mp3s on PC is counting as experience and tell everybody that is mandatory to check Disable Fullscreen Optimisation option in Properties on the game .exe file no matter what, thinking that this will reduce latency in all games, even go as far as to check the Run As Administrator option.

So first of all the option name suggests that it Disables the Fullscreen Optimisation but some people say that it enables Fullscreen Exclusive Mode :D In the early implementations that mode didn't work properly (thats why you can see articles to check this option in Properties>Compatibilitiesbut that should be already fixed for the most part . This option is for debugging purposes, you can enable this option if you have stutters & other problems in game - This is the only time that you should consider to check this box. Kinda like Hyperthreading - it depends on the gameTHIS IS NOT A RULE. Fullscreen Mode reduces the input lag, not disabling it. LMAO. Alt-Tabbing is slower because Windows needs time to exit out of the Fullscreen mode and go to the Desktop (slow transition to Desktop can also be a mismatch b/w the in-Game Resolutions/hz and Desktop settings). This is just Windows "switching gears", this is not a telling sign or proof that the game runs with higher input lag. The reason why alt-tabbing is faster on Borderless or Windowed modes or when the Disable Fullscreen Optimisation option is enabled is because the Desktop is already buffered, you essentially play on the Desktop and the GPU renders both Desktop & the game at the same time so WIndows doesn't need to "switch gears" when alt-tabbing, Desktop is already rendered- Now, This Causes Input Lag, not the other way around. You can potentially fix slow alt-tab by disabling the desktop composition (which I dont think it can be fully disabled in Win10 without disabling DWM) or forcing the legacy alt-tabbing mode. 

Now a different conversation altogether is that this Fullscreen Mode is not a real Fullscreen but this is the closest "to the metal" as Microsoft allows us to be without completely disabling DWMThat's why you see different kind of overlays in the form of notification pop-ups or when you use your headphones or keyboard to lower the volume or brightness for ex. Windows just doesn't allow us to play in real exclusive mode like we used to in old Windows versions. But that's most of the time OK and it doesn't affect the gameplay too much. When you think, all gamers play with it so it's a leveled playfield & not a big deal. You still can disable DWM but depends on how the game is made & your hardware whether you will benefit from that or not.

The games which use administrator mode are counting on one hand of Yakudza gang member (if you know what I mean :D) so Run As Administrator for a game .exe is useless & pointless. If a game uses Administrator rights, it will run As Administrator itself automatically. This usually has something to do with Anti-Cheat program or other additional software like launcher or something, anyway. 

Desktop Composition

The desktop composition is a feature, introduced in Windows Vista and this changed the way visuals work & how the image appears on the screen. In Windows XP for example, the different windows & programs were created directly to the screen on the go. Nowdays, in Win10, the visuals are being buffered in video memory and then rendered on the display. When something is changed on the screen Windows changes only that part, this saves resources but adds small delay. That's why people see snappier mouse movement when DWM is disabled. But that cannot be applied automatically for all the games because they work different & Windows changes the way it behaves when detects a game. This increases progressively over the years with Win7 -8 & now 10. Microsoft implements DWM & embeds it further & further into the OS and it gets harder & harder to disable it. First it was just an option then a service, now it's a multiple dll's & and exe & it's mandatory to use the Modern UI.

Disabling DWM forces Windows to disable Hardware Optimization which in simple terms means that the CPU will now render the Desktop and programs, not the more powerful & optimized for that GPU (changes the way CPU & GPU interact is more accurate). Many programs will use more CPU than normal although that's not a rule. Disabling DWM still has its positives though (like less GPU usage) but the game you play has to use less than 90-100% of your CPU. You could cap the in-game FPS but in many cases you cripple your performance that way (unless you have stutters) & you disable DWM exactly for more performance (for latency you need a very fast low latency connection to benefit in online FPS shooters since this is the main bottleneck). So capping FPS is recommended only if you have stutters, lags or want lower temps (again, like DWM & Hyperthreading it's game depended). Just because the mouse "feels" smoother (which is purely subjective & many times placebo) doesn't mean it's better for gaming.

Im witness to this kind of autism for many months now. How stupid can you be to disable feature or option that says what it does in the description & it clearly will improve your performance when enabled and your primary and only language is English, I have no idea. Some people need to be told things in straight text, otherwise, they don't understand or start assuming wrong - that's fine, as long as you're not pretending to be some kind of expert. 

 So to continue my car analogy: when the Disable Fullscreen Optimisation option is enabled (checked), Windows is on 1st gear, when Disable Fullscreen Optimisation option is unchecked Windows is on 7th gear & allocates more system resources for the game you play. At least that's how it's intended to work. Checking that option is only if Windows does not work correctly. Which comes to how you tweak Windows and whether you know what you are doing or just experimenting. 

Here some examples. Read carefully what they say in the beginning:
"But sometimes, it results in a drop in the frame rate (FPS) when in full-screen mode."

"Fullscreen optimizations may lead to better gaming and app performance when they are running in fullscreen mode. However, some people have reported that fullscreen optimizations doesn't always improve gaming and app performance."

Please someone educate these people !



This is different for every major Windows version. For Windows10 v1809 the Query Performance Frequency in WinTimerTester should show 10.00000mhz. For that the HPET has to be enabled in bios and disabled in Windows. If HPET is enabled (or disabled) in both bios & Windows it will show 20.00000mhz but that's not good. You will have around 1/3 less FPS in games & stutters. These are all default settings so chances are you have this without doing nothing. You could try enabling disabledynamictick to see if improve FPS but it's more likely to work in Windows 7 & 8 than Windows 10. You can try different timers, twist and turn but you won't have better results than defaults in Windows 10, doesn't matter if its 3,70 or 10,000mhz. Some say that the mouse feels better, idk about that because it's highly subjective.

This tweak is mostly for previous versions of Windows, the new Windows 10 timers are better. It fixes stuttering and improves latency & performance in general. It also can cause them. This is different for everyone depending on the Windows version and your System so you have to test it by yourself. I don't think Timer Tool & TimerResolution tools make a difference for gaming in Windows 10 (maybe work if DPC latency is high), you can argue 0.5ms is better than 1ms but what i see is around 0.01ms frame times improvement & of course, it should use more power. Windows Timers automatically get on 1ms when detect a game. This tool is made for audio processing & it slightly increases the latency in AIDA64 when test the RAM just being in the background. 

So for HPET tweak you need to disable (or enable) HPET both in Windows and in BIOS in order to work. Try both on or off if you're not sure.

For modern CPUs in Windows 10 (tested on v1809) is best to enable HPET in Bios & leave it disabled in Windows (which is by default)
For older CPUs like Sandly Bridge its better HPET disabled both in Windows & bios.

This is a unique program. It can fix undetectable for most users problem.
If you have stutters/micro stuttering in games you should try this tool to check if your timer is properly set.

(HPET tweak)
bcdedit /set useplatformclock true
Enable other timers
bcdedit /set tscsyncpolicy Enhanced
bcdedit /set disabledynamictick yes

(HPET tweak)
bcdedit /deletevalue useplatformclock
Disable other timers
bcdedit /deletevalue tscsyncpolicy
bcdedit /deletevalue disabledynamictick

Check it with this command:
bcdedit /enum

Read the Link on the Topic:


LapTop OC Tools

LapTop Performance Boost

Alternative Software Overclocking


Use These tools at your own risk. They can damage your Power Adapter or LapTop or both permanently!

Intel® Extreme Tuning Utility (Intel® XTU)

 This program is working on basically all Intel CPUs from the 3000 to 900 series It has built-in benchmark and monitoring software. If you read the whole tutorial + the video you will know what to do. There is no shortcut here. You have to know what to do otherwise you can brake your laptop.

Intel® Extreme Tuning Utility - Download

Video Tutorial by Der 8auer

How To Undervolt A CPU To Increase PC Performance


(for Intel Core 2 & Core I CPUs)

Most LapTop Bioses don't support Overclocking so this software is good alternative. It can be used on Desktop computers as well. On locked CPUs for example. Both programs can.

ThrottleStop can bypass the CPU throttling. You can disable the power saving features like C-states, SpeedStep, SpeedShif ect, You can Increase the Multiplier, BCLK, TDP ect. if your system support it.

You also can undervolt to increase the battery life & lower the heat. If CPU throttle it can increase the performance. Both programs allow it. I'll leave few links which I strongly recommend to read. If you set the power above your Power Adapter you can damage it along with your LapTop. 

WARNING: ThrottleStop is an Intel Core 2 and Core I performance monitoring and modification tool. Some manufacturers throttle CPU performance to protect their motherboards or the power adapter from being damaged so keep that in mind before making any changes. Using ThrottleStop to overclock or undervolt your CPU or to disable a laptop manufacturer's throttling scheme may damage your computer and it's at your own fucking risk.



1,3,4 & 5

(Console Commands & cfg)

Some of the Console Commands in BF4 explained

For BF4: Uncheck "Enable video background for this device/browser" In Settings in your Battlelog Profile. For some reason it uses around 10% of your CPU. Turn Off Origin In Game and notifications. If you have directX related issues go C:\Program Files (x86)\Origin Games\Battlefield 4\__Installer\directx\redist and run DXSETUP.exe file to update/fix your directX version. Sometimes that could be from unstable GPU overclock and/or overheating. If you have serious issues with video drivers and want to remove them you might have to use DDU. It works best in Safe Mode but you can use it normally as well. Be careful, this tool can ruin your Windows if done wrong.

 You can also Repair Battlefield from Origin with right click on the game. If you don't have enough RAM & you have lag you cant try fix it using x32 bit version of the game. 

*My .cfg File for BF4

Place it in Battlefield 4 folder:  C:\Program Files (x86)\Origin Games\Battlefield 4

PerfOverlay.DrawFps 1

WorldRender.PlanarReflectionEnable 0
WorldRender.MotionBlurEnable 0
WorldRender.MotionBlurQuality 0
WorldRender.MotionBlurMaxSampleCount 0
WorldRender.MotionBlurRadialBlurMax 0
WorldRender.MotionBlurForceOn 0
WorldRender.MotionBlurFixedShutterTime 0
WorldRender.MotionBlurMax 0
WorldRender.LightTileCsPathEnable 0
WorldRender.DxDeferredCsPathEnable 0
WorldRender.SpotLightShadowmapEnable 0
WorldRender.SpotLightShadowmapResolution 64
WorldRender.TransparencyShadowmapsEnable 0
RenderDevice.Dx11Enable 0
RenderDevice.Dx11Dot1Enable 0
RenderDevice.Dx11Dot1RuntimeEnable 0
RenderDevice.StereoConvergenceScale 0
RenderDevice.StereoSeparationScale 0
RenderDevice.StereoSoldierZoomConvergenceScale 0
RenderDevice.VSyncEnable 0 
PostProcess.DofMethod 0
PostProcess.BlurMethod 0
PostProcess.DynamicAOEnable 0
PostProcess.DynamicAOMethod 0
Render.VSyncFlashTestEnable 0
RenderDevice.RenderAheadLimit 1
RenderDevice.ForceRenderAheadLimit 1
RenderDevice.DxDiagDriverDectectionEnable 0
RenderDevice.TripleBufferingEnable 0
WorldRender.FxaaEnable 0
Render.DrawScreenInfo 0
PerfOverlay.FramefileLogEnable 0
GameTime.MaxVariableFps 500


Thread.JobThreadPriority (your CPU thread #) 
Thread.ProcessorCount (your CPU thread #) 
Thread.MaxProcessorCount (your CPU thread #) 
Thread.MinFreeProcessorCount 0

# If WorldRender.MotionBlurEnable is 0 other blur commands doesnt work. 

# If you want to see supression:
# WorldRender.MotionBlurEnable 1
# WorldRender.MotionBlurRadialBlurMax 1 

# WorldRender.MotionBlurFixedShutterTime 1
# If WorldRender.SpotLightShadowmapEnable is 0
WorldRender.SpotLightShadowmapResolution 64 doesnt work.

It works for all Battlefield games on Frostbite like BFH, BF3, BFV. Some commands wont work but most will. I cap my fps on 500 but you can change that. Just don't cap it to 60 if you have more fps because it's stupid. Only if you have stutters. Or don't care about performance. In that case why da fuck are you reading this...?!?

This is one of the best .cfg files as far as Im concern, it has all performance related commands:

I see many .cfg files with commands like: RenderDevice.DxDiagDriverDectectionEnabl-e 0 
its not correctly shown after the copy/paste from internet. You should fix that one.  RenderDevice.DxDiagDriverDectectionEnable 0 is the correct one. People actually think that's 2 separate commands and leave them both :D. Stop mindlessly copy/pasting, do your research.

C:\Users\User Name\Documents\Battlefield 4\settings\PROFSAVE_profile Settings

These are the most relevant settings. Of course most of them can tweak in game but there are few you can't. This will work for other BF games as well, where the commands are the same.

GstRender.AmbientOcclusion 0
GstRender.AnisotropicFilter 0  or  1 or 2
GstRender.AntiAliasingDeferred 0
GstRender.AntiAliasingPost 0
GstRender.ConsoleAntiAlias 0 - doesnt affect the performance but u still can disable
GstRender.EffectsQuality 0
GstRender.Enlighten 0 - can lower or disable the Sun/light glow effect 
GstRender.LightingQuality 0 - shadow detail
GstRender.MeshQuality 2 or 3- how far the game renders the world around you
GstRender.MotionBlur 0.000000
GstRender.MotionBlurEnabled  0
GstRender.PostProcessQuality 0
GstRender.ShaderQuality 0.000000 or 1.000000
GstRender.ShadowQuality 0 or 1
GstRender.StereoConvergence 0.000000
GstRender.Stereoscopy 0
GstRender.TerrainQuality 0
GstRender.TextureFiltering 0  or  1 or 2 - slightly affects mouse movement-can help with aim. Very slight performance drop.
GstRender.TextureQuality 0
GstRender.TransparentShadows 0
GstRender.UndergrowthQuality 0
GstRender.VSyncEnabled 0
GstRender.WeaponDOF 0
GstInput.Deadzone 0.002000 or 0.001000 or 0.000000 - for mouse responsiveness (0 is fastest)

GstInput.MouseRawInput 1 - Disables Windows mouse settings. 1 to 1 mouse input

Battlefield 4 Ports:
TCP: 80, 443, 9988, 20000-20100, 22990, 17502, 42127
UDP: 3659, 14000-14016, 22990-23006, 25200-25300 

there are more

Smart_Port_Forwarding App

how to:

Punk Buster Setup

Unzip the app and put it in the game directory (where the bf4.exe is located)
Start it & Click "Add a Game". Choose the game. Click "Update PunkBuster"

I will make separate post for BF5 .cfg file when all the commands come out. In Alpha & Beta some commands were very buggy so need time.


Keep in mind that internet connection is the main factor but except ping there are other metrics and circumstances that make a connection good or bad. Death by High & Low ping players feels almost the same. Battlefield 3 & 4 tries compensate the latency and if you play vs good player with decent connection but live far from the server the game "overcompensate" & puts you in slight disadvantage. BF1 puts a cap on that compensation & you won't take damage above a certain threshold. I believe thats the case with BFV as well. In BF4 you have to pre-fire & aim ahead a lot if you play against such player. You see where he was a few ms ago not his real location (same vs low ping players too).



My PC is Maxed Out which means that I have the highest OC on my CPU, GPU, RAM and thats the ceiling of its PC performance. With that said I have i5 7600K and biosflashed GTX970 but the performance is more like I7 4790k and GTX 980 stock. This is the maximum performance with this configuration and possibly even slightly more with some Windows tweaks. In Cinebench my highest score is 900 (which is a lot for 4 core i5), in Valley Benchmark - 71,2fps (Extreme HD 1920x1080 8xAA fullscreen). Sadly my card has only 2 6-pins so the power delivery is stopping me to "unlock" the card. The ASIC Quality Rating is 77.3 which puts it among the first 14% in GPU-Z. 270-560fps in BF4 on 1080p LOW (Mesh-High).


My Setup is:

I5 7600k 5.297ghz (BCLK:103.8765)/ AsRock Extreme 4 
 HyperX Fury: 2x2666mhz OC:3200mhz-tweaked timings
GTX970 SuperJetstream - bios flashed 
GTX980Ti G1 Windforce - bios flashed 
 Kingston V300 & WD SSDs + Hitachi SSHD
 PSU: Fortron 700W 
Benq XL2411Z 144hz 1ms.
Redragon Mechanical Gaming Keyboard 
Mouse: Cougar Minos X5 (2000hz) dpi:1800 Sens: 0 or 1400dpi +1 in-game
Headset - SONY Wireless MDR-RF810R & HyperX Cloud II Pro



Task Manager Tip

Just right click on the bar like on the screenshot and you will see more options to explore.

BTW remember “Windows Logo” + “X” keys on the keyboard.

 Also I feel people don't make a difference between Internet Gaming & Internet Browsing tweaks. And I've seen many gamers even good ones use obsolete registry tweaks, some of them even with wrong values. These work in Win 7 & 8, not in Win 10. For example look TcpMaxDupAcks - there is no 50 option. They are from 1 to 3, 2 is default & you do not want to change it. EnableDca - DCA doesn't exists in Win 10. 
 SynAttackProtect is not for gaming as well. I can continue but I made my point.


I even seen this for a gaming tweak (for Win10). 


 Many of these tweaks (& random values) don't do anything to gaming so when player adds them and see he plays good and have good scores automatically thinks they work & are good settings. That's a placebo effect.

Here's how cheaters do it. That's why the handcam in stream means shit. Pathetic little... Looks like a controller feature on consoles, maybe its somehow adapted to run on PC.


There is a guy who placed my guide in a negative graph on his page in GitHub. I talked with the guy. The reason is because I mentioned disabling the page file and because I disable Cortana. He actually never read the whole guide. He also said that disabling the CPU C-states is a myth too. He obviously doesn't know what he's talking about. Another thing is it's obvious he read old Microsoft Server documents and don't know much about gaming outside the few sites he read. Server Optimization is just the opposite of Gaming Optimization and despite it's useful reading, it doesn't say anything about gaming or how to improve latency in games. I'm testing everything myself, making my own tweaks, not just using Google and Im very careful about the placebo effect. Also im not doing this since yesterday, like many "Gurus" these days. He has not a bad collection of registry tweaks though (some obsolete). 

 ...what.... he thinks C-States are something related to SSDs?!?! LOLS. If thats not some kind of a mistake this guy is a moron :D Im gonna place his ramblings as a NEGATIVE example too because he assumes without testing and just repeats what he saw on internet. Disabling Desktop animations even on the super high-end GPUs cause a delay, that's something you can't avoid. People disable animations because they want snappy experience. Well, some are just copying what they saw on internet, just like him :D So you say you worked at Nvidia, doing what exactly!? I can put money on the table that its nothing to do with gaming or latency, or logic.

I decided to stop here because it is already a very long article. Maybe I'll give more optimization tips & apps which are not in the blog (or easier ways), as a "thanks" if someone make a donaton, IDK. I just leave the link, I dont expect anything from anyone.

If you like the article comment below and tell me what you think. Is there something I missed? Aks me anything. You can write in the comment section down bellow.

If someone want to support my work & buy me a drink :)
("Sending to a friend" option)